12 Volt Conversion.........????

I'm confused about "terminal block" and "solenoid". It appears I have no terminal block. I thought the soleniod was the small cicular piece with 3 or 4 wires from it. I have a very large wire running from the starter to the solenoid, at least I think its the solenoid.

Do I need to buy a terminal block?

I could take some pictures if I need to.

Thanks in advance,

Doug
Wisconsin

Your description is un-clear but ....."I have a very large wire running from the starter to the solenoid"..... implies that you are describing the 2N starter switch mounted at the bottom of the steering column.

The 2N has a 3-terminal mount on the backside of the dashpanel that holds the "infamous ballast resistor" which is mandantory for the OEM 6 volt square frontmount 1-terminal ignition coil.

Since you conviently neglected to specify what type of N-Engine (frontmount or sidemount) or model of N-Tractor you are attempting to convert to 12 volts, I am unable to further advise you..... .....respectfully, Dell

You right, I forgot to supply enough information. I just remembered you flunked mind reading. (just ask your wife)

One of the reasons I have trouble with the description is I don't really know what I have. I think it is a 2N serial # 107824. It has some real custom stuff. The side mount distributor was apparently coverted from a magneto.

One of the reason I'm trying to install a alternator is to "know what I have".

I removed a 12 volt generator, voltage regulator, and 12 volt battery. I'm following some instructions I found on the net but it appears that the previous owner removed the terminal block and infamous "ballast resistor".

I have pics of the unit at www.camplulu.com/images

I'm kind of starting from scratch and the I&TF04 manual doesn't have anything like my half breed setup.

Thanks again for you knowledge and help,

Doug
Wisconsin

• I'm no doctor, but I'm loosing my patients.....Help

Would it be beneficial to get a stock wiring harness, terminal block, etc. and go back to near original, even if it is 12 volts? My guess is that all the parts to do this would be less than $50.

In the future, it would be easier to work on and troubleshoot and get advice.

My $.02 worth,
Danny

What David sez..... ...and..... .. gettcha both the I&T FO-4 manual and the N-Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC) Then you'll be much more able to straigten out yer "kludge-job".

There is nothing inherently wrong with your non-standard starter solenoid being used to transfer battery power to your starter. And yes your s/n implies 9N. And yes the block-off plate at bottom of steering column is where the OEM manually operated safety starter switch used to be.

I'd suspect one of the previous owners didn't know that the OEM starter switch is still available from FNH or he thought the solenoid was cheaper, who knows? I suspect that if you want the OEM starter safety interlock to work, yer gonnna haffta go boneyard pickin'. But first look at the parts manual so ya knows what all ya needs..... ..... .Dell

Your non-stock "sidemount" coil should have either been set up to work with 12 volts input, or had an added non-stock ballast resistor.

You obviously aren't looking for originality. So there isn't much point in buying an original terminal block just as a place to connect wires.

You can use the ammeter terminals for some of your wiring and perhaps a spade terminal block or even just a nut and bolt and eyelet wire ends to connect back to your keyswitch, etc.

I guess I learning a lesson about believing what the owner says. Everything is suspect now.

I'm not sure where to go from here but I'm going to start with the manual. I really can't have a tractor that starts in gear.

What are my options?

Doug

Or was the genny / regulator not working?

Soundguy

The earliest 9Ns did not have the safety lockout, and had a pushbutton on the dash. Maybe just live with what you have. To fix it "right", I think you need to give Don B or some other vendor a call, or perhaps scrounge junkyards for a start switch and maybe a pushbutton.