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To remove the input shaft bearing you may have to burn it off with an acetylene torch unless you have a bearing puller yoke and a press etc. The race or cone can be removed by welding a bead all the way around it and allowd to cool to room temperature. This will shrink the cone and allow it to be taken out of the housing. The seal can be knocked out with a long screwdriver or a drift. You will need a big socket or pipe of the correct size to drive the new seal back in the housing without distorting it. The bearing and cone can be installed by striking on the inside race with a drift or chisel etc being careful not to damage the roller retainer on the bearing. I would carefully inspect the old bearing first to be sure it even needs to be replaced. The housing is shimmed for proper bearing preload with either metal shims or multiple gaskets and if the bearing is not damaged or pitted it may be possible to just remove shims to gain the preload for the bearing. If you can push and pull on the shaft after the housing has been replaced with the bearings etc. then you do not have enough shims removed. There should be no in and out movement after it is installed and torqued. You can also remove all the gaskets and shims and use 3M silicone glue instead of a gasket if you need more bearing preload. If you can't get enough preload when all gaskets are removed then the rear bearing will need to be replaced or the pilot bearing inside the transmission on the top shaft. This will require removal of the top shaft from the transmission unless you have a way to pull the bearing come off the top transmission shaft. Zane
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