(OT) Elect. Motor Fried?

So like an idiot, I assumed he was correct. Duh.

On the motor is a switch for "high' - 'low' and of curse the on/off switch. So like an idiot, I put the switch on the high setting assuming it was for the 220. Put a new 220 male plug on the missing end of the plug-in wire.

(Motor is 1hp 5a - 220. 1hp 10a 110) with a reset button.

Plugged it into the 220 20a outlet, to see how the old motor would work. Idiot.

It ran, and quite well, but just slightly noisier than I was hoping, but I wanted to let it run, warm up and work out the cobwebs....it evened out and ran nicely after let's say under a minute.

Well, like an idiot, I turned it off after about 4 minutes of quiet running. After I unplugged it and as it was winding down... poof. A small puff of smoke came out of the externally mounted capacitor...and boy do capcitors stink when they burn.

Afte-that, the motor would not run. Just a nice hummmm after plugging it back in....very briefly.

Pulling the cover off the caapcitor it indicated 120v. And after pulling the cover of the reset switch, and then the cover on the motor, and reviewing the wiring diagram the thing was wired for 110.

OK...I mean not ok, My question is this:

What happened to the motor? Is it fried? or is there a chance the capacitor fried only? If I was running double volts into a motor could I have fried the windings? Or, would the reset switch do it's job and cut-out power to the motor before that would happen... would the capacitor have fried first before frying the motor (assuming it was plugged in at the time it blew).

oh man, that capacitor? was it ever hot.

There is an excellent repair shop called Wolfe Machinery in Iowa that specailizes in repair of the old DeWalts, and I can get a capacitor easy enough...but I'll blow the saw budget if I fried the motor.

Any ideas? Dell? others? I'm not an electrical genius but just fumble along and hope for the best. 9N'er

Hard to tell about the conditions of the insides of the motor, now.

I believe that you should take the saw, or just the motor, to your favorite repair show for an evaluation. The saw is worth repairing, if financially feasible to you.

Any time that I purchase a "stationary" piece of used machinery, regardless, I always take the time to check out the previous owner's set-up.
Had an expensive piece of equipment that I loaned a neighbor, once, to build some bookshelves in his daughter's room. I always keep all motors, 1/2 hsp. and larger wired for 220 volts. Well a friend of the neighbors, "temporarily" wired my "new dewalt" for 110 volts.
Well when the project was done, the neighbor returned my saw and forgot to tell me about the wiring change. Well, guess what?? Cost me a whole new motor. The plugs don't on the equipment line cord (always tell the story. If I'd have known what the neighbor had for an electrical source, I would have gladly put in a temporary 220 volt. circuit for the saw. Even on SUNDAY. BECAREFULL OF USED ELECTRICAL EQUIP.

SO I HAD AN EXPENSIVE NEIGHBOR!!!!! !
HE MOVED. GOOD.

Try a new capacitor. CHECK WIRING DIAGRAM!!!!

The motor has a red reset button and I think it has a brake. The only colors I can find are white, blue and (what I think is) yellow. There are more wires in the motor than on the schematic. This is a big, solid saw that will clean up well. Can anyone tell me how to get it running?

Thanks
Yuval