12 volt conv. I must be an Idiot?

Before I thoroughly explain my wiring, I'll tll you that the 2 post terminal block was broken and I am using a ballast resistor in place of it. I refer to that as "1st resistor" from here on out. Here goes:

1) Wire from the distributor post to the + post on 6 volt coil

2) Wire from - post coil to the left side of the 2nd ballast resistor

3) From the bat post on the alt a wire goes to the + post on the ammeter, P2 short wire to bat post on alt, P1 goes to one wire on the side marker lite, the other wire from the side marker light goes to left post of the first resistor.

4) Solenoid small post wire to starter switch, from the bat post a wire goes to the - post on ammeter

5) On the ignition, the yellow wire goes to the right post of the 1st ballast resistor, the black wire goes to the left post of the first resistor.

6) There is a wire going from the right post of the 1st ballast resistor to the right post of the 2nd resistor also.

7) there is also a short wire from the - post on ammeter that goes to the left post of the 1st resistor.

I wired it exactly like the drawing with the exception of using a side marker lite (which the drawing did not call for and the original terminal block was missing a post so I used a ballast resistor.

Any Ideas. It runs fine except it won't turn off????? ???

Thanks, Dave Brown

As I understand your description, it sounds as if you have your ignition switch across your number 1 resistor and no matter which position you place your ignition switch in, the electrons gonnna go thru your #1 resistor to your #2 resistor and your engine is gonna keep on runnin' because your ignition switch is being "by-passed" by your # 1 rsistor.

Get rid of your....."7) there is also a short wire from the - post on ammeter that goes to the left post of the 1st resistor"..... ..wire.

Then..... ."5) On the ignition, the yellow wire goes to the right post of the 1st ballast resistor, the black wire goes to the left post of the first resistor"..... ...connect the black wire to your - post on the ammeter.

This will make certain ALL the battery power goes thru your ignition switch and you will beable to turn your engine off..... ..... Dell, the 12 volt advocate for the right reasons and knows 7-ways to do it right the first time.

Good luck.

Mike

You coil is hooked up backwards, unless you have an unusual positive ground alternator. Assuming a negative ground battery, the - terminal on the coil should go to the distributor and the + terminal should go to the dropping resistor.

The obvious red flag is that the key switch should not be connected to the opposite sides of any resistor. I had to draw out a circuit diagram from the description you gave to figure out what you did.

The problem is that there are two paths from the battery to the coil. One through the key switch and the other through the "first ballast resistor". Both paths converge and then proceed through the second resistor to the coil.

It appears that all you have to do is remove the first resistor entirely. Maybe cut it in half with a pair of pliers. Leave everything else hooked up as it is. Check the voltage at the coil. It should be 0 volts with the key off, 6 to 9 volts with the key on and points closed, 12 volts with the key on and points open. If so, your second resistor was all you needed anyway.

If you simply remove the first resistor, as I suggested, the tractor will shut off, but the side marker lamp/idiot light will not.

If you follow Dell's advice, and you leave the first resistor in place, everything will work except the ammeter will not read correctly. It will never show a discharge, and (when the alternator is charging) will show the total alternator output, instead of the net current flow to the battery.

Let me suggest this: Ignore what I said. Follow Dell's advice, except connect the black ignition switch wire to the + post on the ammeter instead of the - post. The - post on the ammeter should only go to the solenoid battery terminal. With this setup, you will have to leave the first resistor in place or the side marker lamp will not be connected to anything. But, as Dell said, this won't hurt anything. An alternative is to connect the side marker lamp to the yellow wire from the key switch at the right end of the second resistor and remove the first resistor.

P.S. I still think your coil is connected backwards.

Carol