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12V Conversion??

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David-TN

02-23-2003 12:01:00




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Hi. We just bought a 9n tractor. It has a 12volt battery in it. But it also has a generator, a cut out relay and appears from what we can find to still be a 6volt system. How can I find out if this tractor has been converted? We put a volt meter on the generator and it jumps all over the place, the tractor is also very hard to start. However, since the seller said it had been sitting up for some time we are not sure if that is because for the volt issue or just from sitting. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. David

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David_TN

02-23-2003 14:32:42




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 Re: 12V Conversion?? in reply to David-TN, 02-23-2003 12:01:00  
We drained the fuel system, sprayed some carburator cleaner through the carburator and then filled it with new gas. We got it started with ether in the carburator. When it is warm it will start on it's own, but cold needs ether. I took the generator off and found it full of wasps nests and the brushes came out broken like soft plastic. Is there any hope or point in rebuilding the generator? How do I get the pulley off the front of the generator? There is electrical tape around some of the wires like someone has been in it before. I have a delco alternator already. Since I am thinking going ahead and converting it to 12 volt would be the most cost effective alternative, anyone with any ideas as to where I can get brackets to put it on? Thanks again. Didn't know this would be so much fun. David

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Dell (WA)

02-23-2003 14:03:02




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 Re: 12V Conversion?? in reply to David-TN, 02-23-2003 12:01:00  
David..... ....yes, no, maybe..... here is the deal.

The 9N has what is called a 3rd-brush voltage regulation scheme (back of generator endplate). It can be jimmied to output upto about 17 volts, which is enuff to charge a 12 volt battery. OK? NOT GOOD, because it'll boil off all that corrosive battery acid. Nasty stuff. The reason it will boil off the acid is because you have NO CONTROL over the charging rate (amps) like you do with a real voltage regulator. OK?

The OEM 9N DOES NOT HAVE a voltage regulator, OK? It has a roundcan cut-out relay at bottom of steering column. (disconnects the battery from generator when engine is not turning the generator and charging). The 9N charge rate is operator adjusted for about +3 amps with the 3rd-brush when running.

You mention several other "problems", like voltage jumpin' all over the place. Thats a pretty good sign that the generator brushes are bad. And if you're using a digital voltmeter, they are real sensitive to "noisey" bad brushes. Generator bushes $3 cheap.

Hard starting can range from wornout engine, check your compression, dry then wet with 1 oz of oil, 5 puffs min. Ford specs: 90 psi min. Low compression can be wornout engine, blown headgasket, stuck rings from setting too long. Write down your compression readings, most of us have CRS. (can't remember stuff) Stuck rings are fairly eazy to un-stick with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) treatment. Its a cheap $5 try.

Hard starting can also be caused by "bad sparkies". Bad sparkies can be caused by 12 volts on a 6 volt ignition coil. Bad sparkies plugs, recommend Autolite AL-437, or Champ H-12, or NGK BP4L. Modern no lead gasoline can foul your sparkies and they can still look good. You can never go wrong by replacing your sparkies, just check the gap right outtta the box 0.025". OK?

Hard starting can also be caused by gunked up fuel system, including clogged carb jets from old gasoline. Do the eazy things first. Check the filter in glass valve under tank. Check the filter in the carb inlet elbow. Theres a 3rd filter inside the gastank that actually melts but the only way to check it is to unscrew the shutoff valve assy. If you do that, you'd want an empty gas tank (gas is gravity feed), and if I did that, I'd have a new tankvalve to put in, $20 cheap.

Hint to tell if your starting problem is fuel or sparkie related. Give a quick squirt of ether quick start into carb mouth, and try to starter. If burps and runs ether, ya gotts a carb problem. If'n it don't do quick run on ether, ya gotts a sparkies problem. Don't use a lottta ether.

The last hint, remember the 6 volt mantra: "keep'em clean, bright, and tight" and don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy farrin' battery cables, gettcha some 'arry chested 'merrican made 1/0 (thick as your thumb) 6 volt battery cables for eazy starting..... ...respectfully, Dell

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best guess?==bj/8n/mt

02-23-2003 13:33:08




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 Re: 12V Conversion?? in reply to David-TN, 02-23-2003 12:01:00  
Although any thing is possible from what you describe it would seem most likely that somebody just threw a twelve volt battery in and called that a job.

If you are trying to read generator volts with a digital volt meter you won't have much luck since generator volatage isn't rectified and too noisy for a digital meter to get a lock on it.

Next issue is going to be whether the coil is six volt. Best guess is it is and if so don't run the thing until you get the electrics sorted out since overvoltage makes toast out of front mount coils.

If you happen to have a good auto electric shop handy I would take the generator in and have them check it.

Sorry I can't be of more help but my first move would be to try to find and debrief the "mechanic" who worked here last.

Your mileage may vary

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soundguy

02-24-2003 12:20:16




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 Re: Re: 12V Conversion?? in reply to best guess?==bj/8n/mt, 02-23-2003 13:33:08  
""luck since generator volatage isn't rectified and too noisy for a digital meter to get a lock on it. ""

Not to pick a point, but if it has a continous polarity output.. it is dc...even if unfiltered 'half wave' style peaks..

Don't want anyone to get confused, as usually an unrectified output is still alternating current..


Soundguy



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