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Kingpin bushing replacement

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David Merryfiel

02-08-2003 15:01:06




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Just got my 41 9n's front axles off this morning. The king pin bushing is toast. What I dont see is any way to remove the king pin. Any out there know more about this than I do?
Thanks




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David Merryfield

02-09-2003 06:21:20




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 Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-08-2003 15:01:06  
If I were to replace the king pin and the bushing will that tighten up the looseness around the pivot? Dumb statement but standing in front of the tractor with my hands around the axle and can rotate it perpendicularly a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch. This would be the same direction the wheels would be rotating. The only thing that would keep this from happening is the tie rods and trailing arms would hold it in place preventing this from happening. Dave is this condition removed by replacing the kingpin and bushing?
Thanks

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David - OR

02-09-2003 12:26:55




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 Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-09-2003 06:21:20  
The front axle must be free to slide fore and aft as it rotates about the pivot pin. The radius rods will force it to do this as they rotate about the sockets at the footpeg end. When the front axle is angled to its limits, it also moves back 1/4 inch or so.

The kingpin bushing, even new and tight, is also ineffective at stopping the front axle from
attempting to pivot in a horizontal plane about a vertical axis (the way a kid's wagon steers). The 1/2 inch lever arm at the pivot doesn't compare well with the 30 inch long axle arm.
Your radius rods take are supposed to take care of limiting this motion.

The "excess motion" that a new kingpin bushing will fix is anything perpendicular to the bushing (up and down, and side-to-side.) It is this motion, when it gets bad enough and combined with the other, normal motions, that breaks distributor caps, hits radiators, or pushes the fan shroud into the fan.

One way to diagnose the need for such repair, aside from taking it apart and measuring, is to jack up the tractor under the oilpan until it is just possible to pivot the axle and get both wheels off the ground, letting the axle hang from its own weight. Now lift up on one end of the front axle. Observe how much "lost motion" occurrs at the center pivot pin as the other tire contacts the ground and you continue to lift the axle. Also, try to slide the axle directly sideways. It has to be a pretty noticeable "clunk" in at least one direction before fixing it is going to do much for you.

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MarviN (OR)

02-09-2003 07:09:43




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 Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-09-2003 06:21:20  
I have the same situation with my 40 9N. The bushing is toast. I cleaned the area around the pin and then applied penetrating oil to loosen the rust. If you don't have any good oil try straight white vinegar, it eats rust but takes a while. Let it soak a bit and add more. I then used a three pound hammer to strike the back of the pin, using an old 1 3/8 socket to fit into the depression where the pin is. This is from advice from looking in the Archives. I have been very cautious about not hitting the axle too hard for fear of breaking the cast support. If you look the support is in a 'U' shape and trying to apply pressure from that angle is not where the strength is. I am currently working on an idea for some support to take the strain off the support bracket while I am pressing the pin out. My pin is securely stuck and I have turned my attention to other things while keeping this on the back burner.

One other thing, there is supposed to be some play in the axle to allow movement of the axle. The radius rods are designed to keep the axle from twisting. The axle needs to be able to move when you adjust the tread width.

And like someone else said, there are no replacement pins for the early Ns, you have to rebuild or make a new one if the old is too far gone.

This from my experience, yours may vary.

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David Merryfield

02-09-2003 08:08:35




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 Re: Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to MarviN (OR), 02-09-2003 07:09:43  
Thanks for the heads up on the axial motion of the main axle. I may not have indicated but simply wanted to know if this was a normal condition or one that required correction. What I will do is get everything clean and apply penetrating oil or vinegar to hopefully loosen things up a bit. I may not do anything at all. The steering arms on the spindles are not split but the early ones and I need to get those off for bushing and bearing replacement. The kingpin is a secondary issue at this point.
Thanks everyone

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duey in MN

02-09-2003 06:49:22




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 Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-09-2003 06:21:20  
Just my thoughts but I see folks writing about the center pin bushing. Some think the fore and aft movement of the axle should be shimmed out. I do not agree. Some think the bushing is a factor in keeping the front axle secure in the direction the wheels would move going through mud or even on rough ground. I figure the center bushing does only one thing besides support the front end, and that is to provide a soft wear point for the axle to pivot on as it follows the uneven ground.

The arms usually called "radius arms" are absolutely key to proper front end geometry. They are supposed to be straight, and kept straight. They provide what little control Ford has for the front end alignment element called 'castor'.

The radius arms move in an arc some as the front wheel track is set wider or narrower. Because the radius arms are fixed length, this wheel track adjustment causes the front axle to move a bit forward or back... another reason NOT to shim movement out at the center bushing.

If you have up and down movement at the center bushing, you may want or need to replace the bushing and/or the pin. But be sure the radius arms are straight, that they are not too loose where they attach to the outer axle portions and maybe even shim the play out of the rear ball socket.

Just my thoughts of Ford front axles.

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David Merryfield

02-09-2003 06:21:02




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 Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-08-2003 15:01:06  
If I were to replace the king pin and the bushing will that tighten up the looseness around the pivot? Dumb statement but standing in front of the tractor with my hands around the axle and can rotate it perpendicularly a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch. This would be the same direction the wheels would be rotating. The only thing that would keep this from happening is the tie rods and trailing arms would hold it in place preventing this from happening. Dave is this condition removed by replacing the kingpin and bushing?
Thanks

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Dave Smith

02-08-2003 16:12:16




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 Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to David Merryfield, 02-08-2003 15:01:06  
David, I recently removed it from my 41, 9N. The King pin has one bolt in the front to hold it in. Then it comes out the front. I had to put mine in a press and push it out. It was stuck in the support piece big time. The 39 to 42 king pin is diffrent than the 43 and newer. I don't know what is diffrent (maybe it's longer) but it is not listed in the master parts catalog and Don B does not have them either. The bushing 3123 is the same 39 to 49. Don has the bushings. You may have to build the one you have up with weld and remachine it or have a machine shop make one up for you. dave <*)))><

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Dave OH

02-08-2003 22:21:52




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 Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to Dave Smith, 02-08-2003 16:12:16  
Question! My brother-in-law bought a new King Pin and Bushing for an 8N. The bushing was a very sloppy fit. A lot of play between the bushing and the king pin. Is this all that is available or is there more than one manufacture. There was no markings on either part.
Dave OH



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David Merryfield

02-08-2003 20:44:49




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 Re: Re: kingpin bushing replacement in reply to Dave Smith, 02-08-2003 16:12:16  
It appears to be pressed in. Maybe have to take it to a machine shop. On the motor (back) side of the king pin it almost appears to be welded. Cleaning it should help me determine if that is so.
The front side is riveted to the back side so am wondering if this has not been previous repair.
This old tractor was a gimme to my Dad several years ago and the worst thing about it has been the steering and components. So I have spent part of the fall and winter replacing all the worn parts. The motor doesnt smoke has good power so have not felt inclined to go into it. Hydraulics work good and works so if it aint broke dont fix it. Thanks for the info

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