The 9N lift has no position control.To maintain the lift at a given position the hand must constantly be on the control lever to continually re adjust. I can fix that for you if you will Email me at [email protected] or see the link below.
LinkThe most common places to leak on the lift is the piston rings and the pressure relief valve.
In order to determine where the lift is leaking you should remove the right hand inspection plate that holds the dip stick for the lift oil.If oil runs out when this cover is removed it has too much oil in it and letting it run out is ok. Start the tractor with a load on the lift arms such as a rotary cutter etc. raise the lift and observe inside the lift to see where the oil is leaking down.If the piston rings are leaking their will be a pretty good stream of oil coming out the end of the ram cylinder. If just a few drops this is ok. Observe the oil in the resorvoir and if you see the oil swirling around the relief valve is probably leaking.It is the gadget that is screwed into the back of the hydralic pump just under the pto shaft.It will be under the oil and feels something like a spark plug. If before starting the tractor you will put your hand into the oil and locate the relief valve you can reach in and put one finger over the end of the relief valve and determine if it is leaking after the tractor has again been started. DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF PUTING A FINGER IN THE PUMP MECHANISM!!!! If however you don't see a signifacant leak from the top you can assume that the relief valve is leaking and simply replace it with a new one and thereby prvent the possible loss of a finger or two. I;ve never tried it but I�ve read that you can drain enough oil from the lift reservoir to uncover the relief valve and see if it is leaking instead of using the obviously dangerous finger feel thing I described.
There could also be a blown gasket somewhere in the upper portion of the lift but if so you will see a lot of oil coming down from the top and then it�s just a case of taking the cover off and finding the culprit.
Be sure to release the control rods from the control valve T on the pump before trying to remove the lift cover. To fail to do so will result in a broken lift control valve stem.
Zane in Alabama. If you should be having trouble with the lift not going down when the lever is moved to the down position I would suggest that while the inspection plate is off on the side of the lift housing you reach in and manually push the two levers that go into the oil in the reservoir and are connected to the control valve. The control valve sometimes sticks in the up position. If you should find that you can make it go down by pushing toward the front of the tractor internally on the control rods then you should drain the lift and pour about 5 gallons of clean kerosene through the lift with the drain open. It is best to pour it directly into the inspection hole. Let the kerosene that drains out sit for about 15 minutes and pour it through again leaving the portion that is in the bottom of the container to be discarded. This should have the residue in it that may have been causing the control valve to stick when it was carried into the control valve. You should also inspect the spring that is connected between the front end of the ram cylinder of the lift to the knee portion of the control rods that go from the linkage at the top to the control valve in the bottom of the pump. This spring sometimes looses it tension from age and usage and must have enough tension on it to pull the control valve out when the lever is moved to the down position.
I noticed that you have a tractor with the Ferguson lift system �Ferguson system� which does not incorporate the option of POSITION CONTROL. I have invented an add on device that will give position control with no modification of the original lift or any component of the tractor and thought that you might be interested in seeing the particulars.
If you still have any doubts after reading this you could look on the N discussion board at and post a question like what is a ZANE THANG? ETC, Link Ask some of the guys on the board or look back to the end of august or the middle of Sept. at Position control for the 9N 2N and TO Ferguson. All these tractors have what is commonly known as the Ferguson system. Installation of the position control. Nothing has to be altered to install the attachment to allow you to have position control on the 9N 2N or TO 20 etc. It bolts onto the outside onto the existing components. It take only minutes to install with a few common hand tools.. It will hold a boom pole in the position where you put it and will not drift either up or down until you move the control handle just as you normally would if it were an 8N with Henry�s position control.
I have one on my TO 20 and I just get excited every time I go out to use the tractor now. I have had this old girl for 34 years and always had to have chains and bars etc. to use my hay rake or draw bar when pulling the trailer etc. Now all I have to do is move the original control handle up or down just as you would on an 8N and put the lift where you want it. You take your hand off the control handle and the lift stays where it is put as long as the engine and pump is running. If you should want to use the draft control all you do is loosen two nuts and you have it back in the draft mode with no interference from the add on attachment. SHIPPING I am now shipping my position control attachment designed for the 9/2N Ford and the TO 20 Ferguson tractors etc. The price is $75.00 plus $5.00 shipping in the USA. Just send me a money order or a personal check and let me know when and where you want it shipped. I will wait till the check clears the bank before I ship. I will ship the money order the next working day.
If you are not satisfied just ship it back to me in good working order and I will refund your money less the shipping charges. My address is Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160. My Email is / [email protected]
Phone 256 268 2327
| 
