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39 n

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Joseph Pajak

12-23-2002 16:33:04




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I bought this 9n ,ok shape starts but knocks only 5-10psi cold the plugs are dry some carbon and it must have been rebuilt befor because there are adjustable lifters in it . Question is can all the bearings be changed out with the crank left in the block ?( mains and rod.)or would it be easier to split the unit .




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Truck

12-23-2002 18:34:33




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 Re: 39 n in reply to Joseph Pajak, 12-23-2002 16:33:04  
THe best engine stand made for a ring and bearing job on a N is the back half of an N. Just unbolt and roll away the front end/radiator(After pulliong the hood, of course) and place a sturdy jackstand under the bellhousing in a secure area and go to town on your quickie rebuild. Of course for a top notch job where you would like to boil out the block, you would pull it off, but even in that case I'd be using the tractor to hold up the engine as I strip it. Just curious, what serial number '39 do you have, and is it an aluminum hood/grille/dash model?
Have fun and be safe!

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Joe P.

12-24-2002 06:01:09




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 Re: Re: 39 n in reply to Truck, 12-23-2002 18:34:33  
Truck, thanks for ansewering. The # on the block is * 9n94883* No aluminium. I bought it pretty cheap though $500. but needs some tlc. Are there more serial #'s on the machine i should find to order parts?



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1942 9N . . . Les, TN

12-24-2002 06:37:22




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 Re: Re: Re: 39 n in reply to Joe P., 12-24-2002 06:01:09  
Oh yeah, and BTW, it's a 1942 by that serial #.

88888-99002 = 1942 9N in my manual (See, I have been readin it).



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joe

12-24-2002 08:43:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 39 n in reply to 1942 9N . . . Les, TN, 12-24-2002 06:37:22  
Les,TN so my 39 is really a 42 with front mount dist. and the stars befor and afterthe number mean thin wall steel sleeves? good to know thanks much.. joe 42



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Dell (WA)

12-23-2002 17:16:49




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 Re: 39 n in reply to Joseph Pajak, 12-23-2002 16:33:04  
Joseph..... ....BEFORE you go replaceing any bearings, take a dry then wet compression test, 5 puffs min and write'm down.

Don't forget you have to pull the frontaxle and bracket off the oilpan so you can remove the oilpan to get to your bearings and oilpump. Then you'll also need a oilpan gasket set and crankshaft seals to putter back together again.

Then get a pack of plasti-gage and measure each bearing clearance, one at at time. Both main and rod bearing clearance 0.0010-0.0015 min 0.005 max, torque to 90-100 ft/lbs. Follow plasti-gage instructions. Plasti-gage is cheap, ya juss gotta ask ferritt.

Now then you can decide what and wheather you need to replace any of your bearings or if a full overhaul might make more sense (based upon your compression tests). Full overhaul kit, rings, bearings, including new replaceable cylinder liner dry sleeves $400.

Myself, I have a hard time holding the crankshaft up into the engine block while replacing main bearings. I like to let gravity help instead of fight me. Your call.

My guess, you've probably gotta bad oilpump rather than all bad bearings. 'course bad oilpump makes bad bearings.

1939 Ford's owners suggested 20wt oil for wintertime, 30wt for normal use, and 40wt for hot summer use. You might try a lighter wt oil for wintertime to improve your pumping ability. I use modern 20-50wt oil all year round. Your call.

Adjustable lifters are good..... ...Dell

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Dell's right (again) . . . Les, TN

12-24-2002 06:31:59




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 Re: Re: 39 n in reply to Dell (WA), 12-23-2002 17:16:49  
Check some things out before ya decides ta just do the bearings. Mine was "recently rebuilt -- went through the whole thing" but, for some funny reason there wasn't much compression (not enuf ta start er up) and oil pressure was a bit low.

Pulled the head and�hmmmm�broken piston ring, scored cylinder wall, rod journals worn .010+, mains .006+. Rod bushings worn past specs. Rod end caps installed backards. Looks like it got STD sized bearings installed but no machine work. So much for my "recent rebuild." It's in the machine shop now. While it's there it'l git new valves, guides (with seals on intakes�full valve job), oil pump, sleeves, pistons (three ring iron), rod bushings, rods resized (de-stroked .010), head milled, crank turned (10x20), and etc.

Moral to the story�do a little more checking before ya make a decision about a limited "rebuild." Next year you'll wish you'd done a little more while ya had it apart. And, that crankshaft is HEAVY. By the way, how'r ya gonna git it out without pullin the flywheel (which requires splittin the tractor)?

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joe

12-24-2002 07:04:23




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 Re: Re: Re: 39 n in reply to Dell's right (again) . . . Les, TN, 12-24-2002 06:31:59  
Thats what i thought thanks ..joe



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joe

12-24-2002 06:11:10




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 Re: Re: 39 n in reply to Dell (WA), 12-23-2002 17:16:49  
Sounds good I should do it right the first time and hopefully get 60 years from it . I wonder if the oil pick up tube is loose ? I cranked the moter over a few times to check the oil filter canister, it should fill up with oil wright? with the motor turning. What is good comp. 90-115? Thanks for your knowledge... joe



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90 psi . . . Dell (WA)

12-24-2002 07:06:13




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 Re: Re: Re: 39 n in reply to joe, 12-24-2002 06:11:10  
Joe..... ...Ford specs: 90 psi min dry after 5 puffs crankin'..... ...Dell



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joe

12-24-2002 08:24:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 39 n in reply to 90 psi . . . Dell (WA), 12-24-2002 07:06:13  
dell(WA) I will check befor anything else comes apart, thanks and have a nice holiday. .. joe



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MikeC

12-23-2002 17:04:07




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 Re: 39 n in reply to Joseph Pajak, 12-23-2002 16:33:04  
You will be much happier if you split the tractor from the start. You might also pick up an engine stand (cheap one if this is the only time you will use it, high quality one if you might use it often). The engine stand makes it very easy to work on it.



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joe

12-24-2002 06:26:32




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 Re: Re: 39 n in reply to MikeC, 12-23-2002 17:04:07  
mikec, Thats what i will do ,pull the whole thing and do it right .



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Gordon

12-23-2002 16:55:04




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 Re: 39 n in reply to Joseph Pajak, 12-23-2002 16:33:04  
The pan is the engine suport. Yes you can take the pan off with engine in tractor. But it is not much more work to pull the engine.



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