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Joseph..... ....BEFORE you go replaceing any bearings, take a dry then wet compression test, 5 puffs min and write'm down. Don't forget you have to pull the frontaxle and bracket off the oilpan so you can remove the oilpan to get to your bearings and oilpump. Then you'll also need a oilpan gasket set and crankshaft seals to putter back together again. Then get a pack of plasti-gage and measure each bearing clearance, one at at time. Both main and rod bearing clearance 0.0010-0.0015 min 0.005 max, torque to 90-100 ft/lbs. Follow plasti-gage instructions. Plasti-gage is cheap, ya juss gotta ask ferritt. Now then you can decide what and wheather you need to replace any of your bearings or if a full overhaul might make more sense (based upon your compression tests). Full overhaul kit, rings, bearings, including new replaceable cylinder liner dry sleeves $400. Myself, I have a hard time holding the crankshaft up into the engine block while replacing main bearings. I like to let gravity help instead of fight me. Your call. My guess, you've probably gotta bad oilpump rather than all bad bearings. 'course bad oilpump makes bad bearings. 1939 Ford's owners suggested 20wt oil for wintertime, 30wt for normal use, and 40wt for hot summer use. You might try a lighter wt oil for wintertime to improve your pumping ability. I use modern 20-50wt oil all year round. Your call. Adjustable lifters are good..... ...Dell
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