Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum
Order Ford 8N Parts Online

8N hood repair

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Henry Rubach

12-15-2000 21:52:40




Report to Moderator

I have several 8N's that I am restoring (9 to be exact) and found it difficult to bondo rusted out spots along the bottom part of the hood. Actually the bondo part is easy...it's trying to get the round part sanded back to the original contour that's difficult. I came up with a neat trick I'd like to share. Find an area along the bottom of the hood that's in good shape and lay some masking tape on about a 6 or 8 inch area. Do not overlap any edges of the tape. Mix up a good blob of bondo and slap it on pretty thick. After it cures, lift it off, trim the edges with a hack saw and you have a nice template. Next, apply bondo to the rusted out area and stretch some Reynold's plastic wrap over it. Before it cures, put the template on it and press down. Try to squeeze as much excess bondo out as you can. Remove the template and let it cure. Peel off the plastic. Very little sanding is needed to make a perfect repair. You may want to experiment with different template sizes, etc. depending on how much repair is needed. This technique should work for other hoods as well. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks and have a Merry Christmas!

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Sam 9N

12-16-2000 17:41:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: 8N hood repair in reply to Henry Rubach, 12-15-2000 21:52:40  
This is only a short term repair unless you replace the metal that has rusted away. If any water can get to the back side of the plastic it will lossen and your patch work will fall off. Fiberglass has less chance of this however it can still get between the metal and the patch. If you can weld part of the panel back into it then patch it, it will last much longer. Also remember that if your plastic is thicker that 1/4 in it will also self destruct after time.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Sam 9N

12-16-2000 17:41:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: 8N hood repair in reply to Henry Rubach, 12-15-2000 21:52:40  
This is only a short term repair unless you replace the metal that has rusted away. If any water can get to the back side of the plastic it will lossen and your patch work will fall off. Fiberglass has less chance of this however it can still get between the metal and the patch. If you can weld part of the panel back into it then patch it, it will last much longer. Also remember that if your plastic is thicker that 1/4 in it will also self destruct after time.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John C (IN) Here's what I'd like to try...

12-16-2000 09:08:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: 8N hood repair in reply to Henry Rubach, 12-15-2000 21:52:40  
To make a form, that is.
At the office they've tossed some outdated polyurethane resins A & B, mf'd by Hapco.
In Gallons. Still liquid.
I've rescued some of it for an experiment.
A buddy of mine happens to have the hood off of his spare '52 8N for the winter, and it has NO edges rusted out and is straight..
I have a straight tho rusted out spare hood.
I figured I'd lay his good hood, heavilly waxed with Johnson's paste wax on it's side and build "dams" out of modelling clay and duct tape around the areas I'd like to duplicate.
Then I'd mix up A & B and and pour this material in the dammed area and then lay wooden paint paddles in the goo for rigidity. This stuff is somewhat flexible.
Once cured, I'd peel the form off and have a perfect slightly flexible negative replica of the hood edge beads.
Then I'd blast my hood edge clean then etch it, then slap up the form into place and have a good mold to pour epoxy into from inside my hood.
Does anybody have any recommendations for what to pour in the molds to rebuild the missing beads?
Any recommendations for killing the rust in the first place? Thanks and sorry for the long post.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Nolan

12-16-2000 07:30:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: 8N hood repair in reply to Henry Rubach, 12-15-2000 21:52:40  
'Tis a very good technique, used by boat makers world wide. Works well. Don't know why it isn't used often in autobody, but it isn't.

If you wish to try your hand at it, fiberglassing will give you a much stronger repair then bondo will. I'll give you a quick rundown, and let you consider it.

Polyester-resin:
This is the fiberglass jell stuff you find at K-mart and such. Cheap, strong, smelly, and kinda hard to work with. It turns into stiff jelly very quickly, and doesn't wet out well (as in wet the fiberglass cloth). It tends to lump up and make big thick repairs that require a lot of sanding. But it is dirt cheap.

Epoxy:
This is the good stuff, available at boat repair stores. It's pretty expensive (about $60/gallon), but it works so nicely. Very liquid, wets well, long working times, quite strong. You can get it in different formulations to set up quicker or slower, and you can get all sorts of fillers to thicken it. This is the stuff used to make those beautifull wooden canoes. It is fantastic at automotive repairs.

On the fiberglass itself

Tiger hair:
This is just loose strands of fiberglass mixed into the resin. It's almost always the polyester-resin. Goes by the names of Tiger Hair, Kitty Hair, etc. I personally do not like the Bondo brand formulation,but others do. It's good for filling in compound curves, where cloth doesn't like to lay. I'd recommend it instead of bondo because of its strength and water resistence.

Cloth:
This is just woven cloth made from fiberglass. Very strong along the lay of the fibers, less strong diagonally. Very usefull in doing large area repairs. Hard to wet out with polyester resin, but very easy to wet out with epoxy. Drives you nuts on big holes in metal because it simply sags. You've got to support it until it cures for this. Aluminum foil, waxed paper or plastic wrap all do a decent job of this.

Cloth can be difficult to work with if the surface has compound curves or tight curves. The cloth tends not to want to lay flat then. Working with weights over it helps settle the cloth in, as does laying cloth on the bias.

Mat:
A felt like mass of fiberglass strands. Used usually as a bulking and strengthening agent in building up boat hulls or decks that are to be walked on. Usefull for stuffing into areas of the hood before applying the resin. Can work nicely for making a patch on a rotted fender, if it is layed on the wheel side of the fender where it won't be so visible.

I can babble on quite a bit more about fiberglassing if you'd like. I've built a kayak by hand this way, and have done some pretty extensive boat hull and deck repairs this way. I'm no expert, but I've learned quite a bit about the stuff.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
thanks.......Dell (WA)

12-15-2000 22:54:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: 8N hood repair in reply to Henry Rubach, 12-15-2000 21:52:40  
for the tip, will file away for future reference..... Dell



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy