Coil and Condenser checks

Also, is ther a way to verify the condenser?

Jack

Points open = 0.00 v (zero) this is very important because it tells you if you have a short, hi res or low res in the Dist Circuit causing current flow. When the points are open absolutly NO current should flow = 0.00 volts

Points Closed = ~6.0 v ~ Battey Voltage. If this voltage is lower it means Ignition switch or Points are resistive.

Hope This Helps,

It is measured in Farids (named after some old dead dude that discovered it) But a Farid is really very very very large (about the size of a room). So most capacitors are measured in microfarids or micromicrofarids or picofarids.

While this may or maynot be of interest, you need to understand so you can visualize the 2 types of eazy checks for capacitor faults. MOST COMMON FAULT, is the insulator shorts/burns thru and nolonger separate the metal conductors. Ohm meter will show continunity between the inner terminal and outer shell. BAD condensor.

2nd MOST COMMON FAULT, is the insulator developes a high resistance leak, not quite a short. It will also measure on an Ohm meter as a resistance as opposed to a short (zero resistance). BAD condensor.

CAUTION: don't be fooled by the charge effect of the ohmmeters internal battery causing a momentary surge of electrons flowing into the 2 metal conductors of the capacitor.

The OTHER CAPACITOR FAILURE is OPEN circuit. It is most eazily diagnosted by burned points. You ignition will still make sparkies while a shorted or leaky condensor won't make sparkies.

To check a coil, again, use an ohmmeter to check a coil for continutity. Primary winding (+ to -) about 3 ohms and the secondary (sparkie hole) to eather + or - about 7000 ohms. Exact value not critical.

Voltage checks on a positive ground sidemount 6 volt coil, -6 volts on the coil (-) at all times. On the coil (+) you should read -6 when the points are open and ZERO volts when the points are closed. Coil + goes to battery + (ground) thru the points. Understand?

Don't try measuring voltage out your coil sparkie hole unless you wanna gett knocked on yer butt..... ....respectfully, Dell

A little backgound, I was Bushhoging last weekend and the tractor died. It was like someone hit the key. I haven't been able to get it going yet. I've checked the coil to dist. wire, I've visually checked everything, I've changed out the coil (as that is what it was last time) I'm at a loss, I'm not one to just put a bunch of parts in it, would like to test out first and be sure.

With the distributer cap off, I don't get any spark to the points that I can see,

Last time I messed with the points, I got things out of kilter and had to take it to a shop.

The tractor has run like a top for two years, no problems at all, just died in the field.

Any other ideas/suggestions?

Also I thought that wire, (Primary coil wire) went to the Negative side of the coil. That's where mine is.. I'm sure the old one was on that side.

I'm all stock 6V, no conversion

Jack

You do know that the OEM 6 volt system, all N's are "positive" ground, don't you?

That means that the battery positive terminal is connected by heavy webbed conductor to tranny/engine/chassis ground bolt somewhere. And the battery negative (-) post is connected to the BIG starter solenoid terminal.

If it is miss-grounded (and it happens), that means the generator/voltage regulator must be re-polarized, if you decide to makeitt like the OEM factory positive ground..... ...respectfully, Dell

I'm heading home now and will check.

I'm positive ground. The positive side of the coil goes into a wire harness to never never land.

The negitive side of my coil goes into the distributer and connects to the points and the lead of fthe condensor.

Is that not wired up right?

Jack

It was so weird though, just mowing along and it died. Started up a steep hill, so it put a load on the tractor, but have been mowing the same hill all day.

Jack