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2N Clutch Sticking

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Brent Blaine

10-09-2002 09:53:13




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Have a 1945 2N with a drawbar hitch that I use to move a 4500lb boat in and out of tight quarters. Works great except this summer I've developed a sticking clutch problem. Block the clutch when not in use, so that's no problem, but somtimes clutch won't release when moving the boat and have to kill it with the key. Also the clutch engages with extreme jerking sometimes making close manuvering difficult. Is replacing the clutch the only option to resolve this problem and how hard a job is it. Been getting by all summer, but can be frustrating after a long day on the lake. Have read up on replacement and it seems like it's not that bad. Any suggestions and tips would be appreciated.

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Richard Fazio

10-09-2002 12:36:33




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 Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 09:53:13  
I just did mine last week. I ended up getting the flywheel ground, a new pressure plate, disk, through out bearing, gasket for the main shaft, new main shaft seal, and don't forget to replace the through out bearing return springs. Mine were shot. Using the main shaft to align the disk worked great. The two halves slid right together. It's not a hard job at all.



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Brent Blaine

10-09-2002 12:35:20




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 Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 09:53:13  
Thanks for the tips. As a follow up question, I believe I have a Sherman after market step up transmission. I have what I would call a 2-speed transfer lever in front of the transmission and the speeds I get in high range lead me to believe it is a step up. It would seem to me that this would affect the replacement of the input shaft and the input shaft seal. Any thoughts on this. Thanks again.



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MikeC

10-09-2002 12:50:58




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 Re: Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 12:35:20  
Do you currently have any oil leaking out of the weep hole at the bottom after you have used the tractor for a while? If not, then I would leave it alone. If you do, then there are a couple of paper gaskets and a rubber seal at the top/front of the sherman. Removing/reinstalling the Sherman is a little more time consuming than the simple input shaft.



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Dell (WA)

10-09-2002 13:01:58




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 Re: Re: Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to MikeC, 10-09-2002 12:50:58  
Brent..... ...what Mike said..... ..and.....
Would you believe the Sherman tranny input seal is the same one used by the Ford tranny. $3 (cheap)..... ....Dell



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Evil Steve

10-09-2002 10:03:55




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 Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 09:53:13  
You can try adjusting the clutch for a LITTLE extra time, but you are in for a rebuild. The "chattering" is a worn clutch disk or perhaps weak/tine broken pressure plate.

It'll take you half a day and a couple of hand abrasions. Before you do, write back and get some extra tips from us.



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Brent Blaine

10-09-2002 10:15:03




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 Re: Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Evil Steve, 10-09-2002 10:03:55  
Actually thinking about doing the clutch right away. Have a 4 day weekend starting tomorrow and don't have much else to do, plus the 15 year old son is out of school and can help (not much help though if you've ever tried to get work out of a 15 year old). I'd appreciate any tips. Thanks.



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Evil Steve

10-09-2002 11:29:07




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 Re: Re: Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 10:15:03  
What Dell and mike said PLUS:

1) Check the ring gear on your flywheel. No better time to replace it if needed.

2) Resurface flywheel if needed.

I'm a big believer in replacing ALL parts (disk, plate -if any tines are broken OR WEAK-, throw-out bearing). Weak tines will cause clutch chatter even if new other parts. Why? I'd rather spend my 4 day weekends doing something else!



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MikeC

10-09-2002 10:02:41




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 Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to Brent Blaine, 10-09-2002 09:53:13  
You will find that the clutch and throwout bearing are very easy to replace. Make sure you have 1/2 of the tractor blocked solidly, and the other has a jack and something to catch it "just in case" like cribbing. I prefer to keep the front stationary and roll back the back half. Once you pull it apart the clutch is right there and easy to remove/replace. The hardest part is getting it aligned when you push it back together-just remember that you can turn the PTO shaft and turn the input shaft that way to get the splines to line up.

If you don't have one, get an FO4 manual. And while you are there, you might consider replacing the transmission input shaft seal (very simple to do). It will save you from splitting the tractor to do it because you didn't take the time to do it when you did the clutch (yep, been there, done that just last weekend).

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Dell (WA)

10-09-2002 10:46:21




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 Re: Re: 2N Clutch Sticking in reply to MikeC, 10-09-2002 10:02:41  
Brent..... ...what Mike said..... .and.....
4-bolts removes the tranny input shaft so you can use the tranny input shaft to align your clutch disc so you can bolt your pressureplate down. THEN $3 (cheap) for the tranny input shaft seal. Sorta 2-birds with one stone..... ....Dell



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