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12 volt not chargeing

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Lenard

10-08-2002 14:52:16




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I just picked up a 8n, I can't get the gen. to charge my battery, if I use my battery charger, the battery will stay charged for a week or 2 then will go dead. Also, how do I set the points, there is'nt much room to work on it, poor design??
And last, what oil does the transmition take and what oil does the rearend take??? Thanks.

Lenard B.




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Lenard

10-08-2002 16:51:49




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 Re: 12 volt not chargeing in reply to Lenard, 10-08-2002 14:52:16  
Thanks guys, I'll see about getting one of those i.t. manuals and I think I'll try the 80-90 gear oil as well.

Thanks
Lenard



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Mountainman

10-08-2002 22:13:14




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 Re: Re: 12 volt not chargeing in reply to Lenard, 10-08-2002 16:51:49  
You really should see the archives on the hydraulic fluid issue. There are a lot of differences of opinion on what to use and not use. Some say that most modern 80/90 is not good for some of the bronze bushings in the hyd pump. Others say this is no problem. But you should see more points of view before making up your mind.

I use 134D from New Holland with no problems.

hth

Mountainman...CA

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Evil Steve

10-08-2002 15:35:47




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 Re: 12 volt not chargeing in reply to Lenard, 10-08-2002 14:52:16  
Lenard-

Gonna echo something bj said: get a Ford I&T 04 manual before you go puttering around with this tractor. Some of your questions suggest you are kinda new at engines and mechanics. You may also want to buy the tune-up video available on this and other sites. I haven't seen one, but if you are new, it's gonna help you a lot.

Also, if you aren't familiar with tractors, better learn the "dos and don'ts" for your own safety. There are some cartoons on this site which will help. We don't want to see a new member get hurt.

To set your points, you have to remove the distributor (if yours is mounted in front of the tractor as it sounds like). Once out, you turn the shaft until the rubbing block on your points is contacting one of the 4 high points of the shaft. Then insert a .015" feeler gauge in there SQUARELY between the points (.i.e., don't cock or twist it it to one side). If it goes in without contacting both points, loosen the set screw and move points until it barely contacts both. You MUST continue to keep the running block on the high spot. ALWAYS, until after you retighten the set screw.

If feeler gauge has to be worked between points, then open points until you barely make contact on both points. The "feel" you are looking for is a SLIGHT and I mean SLIGHT drag on the feeler as you move it back and forth (KEEPING IT SQUARE ALL THE TIME AND KEEPING THE RUNNING BLOCK ON THE HIGH POINT OF THE SHAFT THE WHOLE TIME)between the points.

Guess what? As soon as you tighten the screw your point gap may slip. Have to do it all over again (and again and again) until it is correct.

A front mount distributor has a masterted gear on the bottom which only permits the distributor to go back in a certain way (correct way) unless you use a jack hammer. If'n it don't go in easily, keep trying. Once in, put dist hold-down bolt back in place. Hopefully, your timing won't be too far off.

That's another chapter...

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bg

10-08-2002 15:16:03




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 Re: 12 volt not chargeing in reply to Lenard, 10-08-2002 14:52:16  
Check the alternator(or generator) for output. If you don't know how, take it to an auto parts store or auto electric shop. They can test it for you. If it's putting out the 14.5 volts or so that it's supposed to, then you need to figure out(anybody's guess on how your 12-volt conversion was done)how it's regulated and if the thing is properly hooked up to charge the battery.

On the front-mount distributor, you remove the distributor and set the points and timing on the bench. Then you stick it back on. The drive has an offset so it can only go back one way(supposedly). You need an FO-4 manual so you can have the instructions handy.

Ford recommends 5 gallons of 134-D hydraulic oil. The old stuff was 80/90 EP mineral oil. If your system is in good shape, the 134D is good. If you have a lot of leaks and wear, most guys like the heavier stuff. The rearend, hydraulic and tranny all use a common sump with 2 large drain plugs under the tranny and hydraulic and a small sqaure plug under the differntial. Drain all three, put in 5 gal + or -(less if you have leaky rear axle seals) through the fill plug on top of the transmission cover.

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