2n won't start

My best guess based upon your report is: (a) new sparkplugs worked for 2 hrs (b) believe it or not, in 2 hrs you could have "worn" the edge off of the electrodes enuff that your coil voltage will not "jump" the sparkplug gap. (c) sparkplug gaps right out of the box are seldom the "correct gap" anyways. (d) you might check the plug gaps. they should be 0.025 (e) if they are all 0.025 and your tractor STILL won't start, try 0.020. If the tractor kinda starts, you have the dreaded "low sparkies" and will probably need to replace your ignition coil.

But before you replace your ignition coil, be sure that you have performed the 6 volt mantra: "clean, bright, and tight" on all your connections.

One of the original founding members of the N-Board used to claim that 80% of all carb problems were solved in the ignition system. Something to think about.

Howosomever....it is not beyound the realm of possibilities that you really have some water in the gas. Every winter, for precautions, I put a small can of "dry gas" in my tractor..... ...Dell

You neglected to include a vital major piece of information...."I've converted my 2N to 12 volts". This clarifies your problem and also tells me why you have this problem.

Now we have to play "guessing games".

"The system has the proper reducer between the battery and coil. I have been told that the voltage from the battery only drops to around 8v not 6v and I wondered if this could be the problem" YEP!!!!! thats the problem.

The proper reducer would reduce your voltage to 6 volts NOT 8 volts!!! ergo....YOU DO NOT HAVE THE PROPER REDUCER!!!!!

8 volts applied to a 6 volt coil is going to melt the insulative tar and short out some of the internal windings and reduce the sparkies and vola..... NO STARTS.

In a proper 12 volt conversion for a frontmount coil, you need a correct 12 to 6 volt reducer and you also need the OEM ballast resistor wired inseries just like flashlight batterys. If you wire them side by side your going to melt you ignition coil. DO IT LIKE I TELL YOU, wire your resistors in series.

In a proper frontmount ignition system, the OEM 6 volt coil will read about 3.5 volts at the coil (3 min 4.5 max) with the points closed and battery volts with the points open. Any voltage other than what I have "quoted" is going to give you sparkie problems.

If you don't have a voltmeter, you can get a good digital voltmeter at the hardware store for less than $20, don't muck around, get one so you can correctly troubleshoot your tractor.

You don't know how to tell if your points are open or closed???? Simply put your tractor in gear and push on one of those great big rear wheels and watch your voltmeter, it will change when the points open or close. Don't bother trying to tickle the starter motor to turn the engine so that the points open or close. It only by accidently will stop where you want it. Do it by hand like I tell you.

I wish you well, and really care and want to help you get your tractor running again..... ..Dell

Wire 'em in series like flashlight batterys..... ..Dell