12 Volt Conv., ? for Claus, Dell, or Zane.

Before my questions let me explain, I thought I had it all straight, till I read �Claus� post to, �Brian Ramsbey Ignition Help-Help-Help 11/11/2000�.

My 8-N 12-Volt conversion and front mount distributor and six volt coil, with only one resistor in wire to the coil. This single resistor is the one Chrysler Corp. used in the 1970s. Checked the resistance and it is 2.0 OHM. Engine NOT running key on, points CLOSED reading 3.5 volts on top of coil. Points OPEN 12 volts top of coil. Now with engine running reading is steady 11.4 volts on top of coil, (I understand from a previous post, the 11.4 volts with the engine running could be from all the noise in the ignition system).

My questions, What is the difference in a �Ballast Resistor and a Dropping Resistor�? If one of each is needed in line to coil, which one should be nearest to the coil?

As you can tell I�m not an electronics guy, ask me about water treatment and maybe I can help with that. I sure appreciate this board and everyone�s help.

Electricity is just like water in the pipe. Water pressure is just like volts. Amps are like gal/min. Resistors are like 1/2 pipe being supplied by 6" pipe, still have water in the pipe, just slowed down the flow of water. Each resistor causes a voltage drop. You can devide the pressure drops along the pipe. Every time you have a valve you have pressure drop. Every time you have a resistor, you have voltage drop. More valves in a pipe line, less water flow at the end of the pipe. More resistors in a circuit, less amps at the end of the circuit wire. Eventually you have 0 volts, ground. Eventually at the end of the pipe you have a big puddle. Well, sumptin' like that.

A ballast resistor is a special kind of resistor that actually changes resistance due to heat over time, there are materials like that, commonally called negative tempature coefficents. Others decrease resistance, called super conductors. And then there are semi-conductors.

The N-Tractor ballast resistor measures about 0.5 ohms when cold and about 0.7 ohms when hot. Less resistance, more current to the ignition coil and eazily measured with a voltmeter at about 4.5 volts. More current to the coil, hotter sparkies. When the ballast resistor heats up, and it does get hot (burny...burny), it auto-magically increases its resistance to more resistance and thus reduces the current to the ignition coil and keeps you from burning out your ignition coil or ignition points. This all occures in about 1 minute of engine running time.

Now then as to wheather you need 1 resistor or 2 resistors or 3 resistors or more. It doesn't matter as long as the voltage at the 6 volt front mount ignition coil is about 3.5 volts. Which yours is.

Sometimes it is eazier to tell the "electrically challenged" to use a 12 to 6 volt droping resistor and OEM stand 6 to 3.5 volt ballast resistor in series, just like batterys in a flashlight.

It sounds like your 2.0 ohm Chrysler ignition resistor is doing its job exactly right, because you report 3.5 volts at the coil with the points closed and 12 volts battery volts with the points open. And 11.4 fugutabutits..... ....Dell