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*%#!@Electrical Ignorance

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Trusty Rusty '4

04-06-2002 16:16:39

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Well, here I am again with a problem I thought was minor but am to ignorant to solve.
A couple of weeks ago I posted with what I thought was a carb problem.What had happened was the thing ran for 4 or 5 hours one day then conked out. The next day it ran for a hour then acted fuel starved. I could choke it out and it would remain running, otherwise it would die.It was pointed out the it was probably a bad coil. The guy where I bought the tractor thought it might only be the condensor, so I bought a tune-up kit and replaced the points, condensor and rotor. While I was at it I replaced the dist. cap since one of the plug posts had a crack. While gapping the new points I noticed that the dist bushing was wallowed out to a point where the points would not open. So I had that fixed.
Put it all back in and nothing. No fire. I went and bought a coil and put that in. Nothing, no fire.
It is a '47 2N with front mount dist. converted to 12V. It has 2 external resistors in series.
There is power from the ignition, through the solenoid, through the resistors, through the coil and thats where I loose it.
The dist. can't be put in 180 degrees out because of the offset tang.
????? ????? ???HELP!

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Bill (VA)

04-07-2002 06:13:57

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Re: *%#!@Electrical Ignorance in reply to Trusty Rusty '47 2N, 04-06-2002 16:16:39

I would check a couple of things

When you bought the new coil was it a 12 volt coil or a 6 volt coil? If a 12 volt, you may not need both resistors. The original 6 volt coil needed a second resistor in place to drop the voltage down from 12 volts to the 4 volt level. I think the 12 volt coils should run at about 8 volts or so(with points closed). Look through the archives on this because I don't remember these details fully. There are many different ways the ignition systems have been converted and you may need to figure out what you have. In any case once you get the proper voltage for the proper coil you should be able to take a test light or a meter and see the change in voltage at the coil input as the points open and close. If you don't have that change then something is either always shorted or always open and you won't get any high voltage out of the coil.

Don't totally discount 2 bad coils.. I have heard some stories here about that. There may be some info in the archives about resistance checks on them.

Go do a serach on this and you will have more good information than you can read in one sitting.

Regards

Bill from Virginia

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Bob H.

04-06-2002 22:33:10

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Re: *%#!@Electrical Ignorance in reply to Trusty Rusty '47 2N, 04-06-2002 16:16:39

It's hard to believe, but those coils can actually be installed incorrectly -too far forward or too far back. Make sure the spring on the bottom of the coil is in proper contact with the metal button below. I tried two new coils on my 9N before I figured out that it was my fault, not the coil's. Good luck.

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Tyler (MD)

04-06-2002 16:29:55

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Re: *%#!@Electrical Ignorance in reply to Trusty Rusty '47 2N, 04-06-2002 16:16:39

Is the springy thing on the bottom of the coil coming in contact with the button on top of the dist. cap?

Tyman

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test

04-10-2002 15:33:38

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Re: Re: *%#!@Electrical Ignorance in reply to Tyler (MD), 04-06-2002 16:29:55

test

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test

04-10-2002 17:13:02

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Re: Re: Re: *%#!@Electrical Ignorance in reply to test, 04-10-2002 15:33:38

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