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Brian..... ...well I'm impressed, you got the schematic correct on how to hook up a 6 volt frontmount coil to 12 volts. I would interpet your schematic to say I have 1 resistor that drops the 12 volts to 6 volts (just like before the conversion) and then you say that you have a "ballast resistor" to drop the 6 volts to 3.5 volts to run the OEM 6 volt coil. Therefore logically speaking, to use a 12 volt frontmount coil, you would REMOVE the 12 volt to 6 volt dropping resistor. BUT BECAUSE the new 12 volt front mount ignition coil is designed for 13 volts MAX, and because your alternator is putting out 14.7 volts, you will BURN out your 12 volt coil IF you don't have the "ballast resistor" to limit the power going to the 12 volt coil. THEREFORE, you must still CONTINUE TO USE the original "ballast resistor" to keep from burning out the 12 volt coil. Its an Ohms Law thing. Bat.....ballast....Coil +12V ---/\/\/\/\---O--- It generally takes Electronics Lab grade Ohm meter to measure the value of the Ballast resistor, but one book quotes the ballast resistance at 0.7 ohms. I take that to be the "hot" value and the cold value to be about 0.5 ohms. This is why frontmount coil problems are told to measure the voltage at the coil terminal where regular ol' voltmeters are very accurate. In the case of a 12 volt front mount, look for about 10 to 11 volts. Exact value is not too critical. Obviously, if its over 13 volts, ya' gotts problems somewere. Hope this helps explain..... ....Dell
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