8N CLARIFICATION, INTERNAL or EXTERNAL BALLAST RESISTORS That is the Question, on a 12 VOTE CONVERSION.

Now I wont to do a conversion and keep getting different answers concerning the "RISISTOR QUESTION"

I have come to the conclusion that a 12-VOTE coil should be used and install the so called "BALLAST RESISTOR" between the IGNITION SWITCH and the 12-VOTE COIL.

Convert to NEGATIVE GROUND with the 12-VOTE BATTERY, get a 12-VOTE alternator with a built-in reulator from a juck yard, remove the old regulator and rotten wire. At this point get a POSTIVE BATTERY CABLE with SMALLER WIRE-HOOKUP at the CLAMP-TERMINAL. Run three wires from the POSTIVE-TERMINAL, one to the 12-VOTE ALTERNATOR, One to the STARTER BUTTON, and one to the INNITION-SWITCH, from the IGNITION-SWITCH to a BALLAST RESISTOR, on to the DISTRIBUTOR. I have been told that a "CONDENSER" will take 6 AND 12-VOTES, so the only possible problem woud be the "CONTACT POINTS" that ground to the motor.

Does anyone think this "12-VOTE" conversion scheme has any "STANDING"

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL RESPONSES

The reason you see different answers to the Ballast Resistor question, is that there are different coils and different coils need different hookups. Example: NH now sells a "One fits all Coil") and the instructions tell you that if you use the coil for 12 volts you would use a ballast resistor and if you use it for 6 volts you would omit the ballast resistor. This is actually the 6 volt coil used for dual voltages and with the higher voltage you would need an external resistance to keep the coil and points from burning up. You are actually taking a chance with your original setup that you are running on 12 volts. It is a wonder that you have not fried the coil and or points yet. All this to turn the engine over a little faster. Mine is 6 volts and the engine turns over fast enough to start on the 2nd turn. It is usually easier to fix the problem of poor starting that is usually due to neglegt of the electrical and mechanical systems. The use of 12 volts is usually an expensive bandaid to cover up poor maintenance. Howsomever, if you are bent on doing it any way, buy one of those conversion kits for about $150.00 and get a 12 volt coil. (Manufacturer to specify what type of resistor to be used) (If they will not, do not buy it)
Happy Motoring
Claus

I believe if you are really sincere in wanting to convert your tractor to 12 volts, it is now time for you to "hire" an experienced tractor mechanic that is at least "conversant" with electricity. Get out of his way, and let an experienced mechanic do it right. That way, when you have problems, you can blame someone else..... ..Respectfully, Dell

Thank you for you very nice response. However due to past experience, I do not trust local mechanics, because I have been taken (gyped) before, where it hurt.

I will not even allow a mechanic under the hood of my truck, because they usually tare up more than they fix.

I have more than 200,000 miles on the ten-year old truck that I bought new, and it still runs perfect. I am the only person that has ever been under the hood.

It seems that when I wont something done right, I have to do it myself.

I will convert my 1951 8N-B to a 12-VOTE system the right way, but not at the expense of a local mechanic shop, that takes advantage of women and children with bogus and unneeded repairs and padded parts list that was never installed.

I am very sorry that you were upset with the message that I posted on the board, but I feel that other people who own 8N's and use this "dicussion board" will respond with a good answer.

THANK YOU