Gary..... ...what Brian said..... ..and.....
If thats your tractor picture, with the under the oval "swoop" inplies to me that is a 2N tractor. 2N's only had an 11 amp 3rd brush generator with a roundcan cut-out relay on the steering column. 11 amps is only 66 watts. Your frontmount ignition system takes about 20 watts (3 amps) to run. That means that your generator capacity left to run your headlights is only about 46 watts. If one headlight is 30 watts, that means 2 headlights require 60 watts, and yer about 15 watts innna hole. Meaning discharged 6 volt battery. Later 8N's had 20 amp 6 volt generators with squarecan voltage regulators mounted on the backside of dashpanel. Ford did offer a 20 amp upgrade to 9N & 2N's based upon the frontmount 8N bigger generator setup. As to the difference between the glass prisms, your left bulb is a flood light usually used on the rear implement light. Your right light with its trapazoidal beam is a typical 1 beam tractor headlight. Heres what I'd do. I'd get 2 new 6 volt tractor headlamps so they looked the same. Then I'd bring back a ground wire from the headlight terminal thru the mounting bracket and ground the headlights to some engine bracket bolt. This will improve your light output tremendiously. My personal opinion of GE Lighting Engineers SAE headlight specs suck. GE is the leading member of the SAE lighting specifiers. They won't approve European H-4 headlights for US because they were invented in France with a sharp cut-off low beam that doesn't blind on-coming drivers. GE's problem is the H-4 lamps don't throw light high enought so you can read street signs. Go figger? But GE amazing approved the GM designed rectangular 4 bulb headlight design because GM claimed it lowered the hoodline so the drivers could see closer infront of the car for safety sake. Then GM lengthened the hood to meet US Govt 5 mph bumper safety specs. Go figger again?..... ....the myopic Dell
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