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Lee, It is hard to not just say (yell!) no, No, NO! :-) Rather let me ask, What do you think you will accomplish by putting on stabilizer bar(s)?!? If you think you will some how control the movement of the plow in the ground - forget it! Once in the ground the plow does not respond well to the tractor steering, i.e. you cannot turn on a dime like you can with a mower. What you do is "coax" the plow to turn, SLOWLY, while all the joints of the hitch groan in complaint! REALLY strange sound when you first hear it, and it does groan! :-) Like Greg, my Uncle used his, now mine, 8N/plow on 250 acres and never used a stabilizer bar. I have heard of people doing it with just one which promptly becomes bent like a pretzel. The ONLY reason people get by using them is that they use TWO which means one is always in tension - the strongest mode - which keeps the other from being bend in compression - the weakest mode. Since you bought the plow used, I would assume that it is already adjusted correctly to "follow" the tractor. What I mean by follow is that the "track" of the plow (the line created by the land slide/share) is in line with the axis of the tractor. If you have seen a car with the rear axle out of line you can visualize what I am trying to tell you, the rear axle makes the car "crab" to one side so the center line of the car does not follow the center line of the road, rather they form a small angle - looks funny when you follow one of them on the road. :-) Zane uses the rudder (like on a boat) analogy to describe the plow set up - you want the plow (rudder) to "steer" the tractor (boat) in a straight line. ONLY if you change the share or mouldboard or other component should you have to readjust the plow. I used my Uncles just as it was. NO problem! Would you please respond with what you think stabilizer bars will do for you? It would help me understand your reasoning - maybe you have a REAL good reason that I have not thought of. Thanks,
Larry
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