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Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP!

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gary

07-28-2001 20:08:29

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I replaced my spindle bearings and bushings, and the left spindle will not slide thru the housing. When I removed the left spindle, the bearing was desentigrated, and there was some metal to metal wear where the bearing was seated. I can't figure out why it won't go thru. Wondering if I should have a machine shop machine down the spindle some to make it smaller in diameter. Or is the problem that the spindle housing has some how shrunk? What is going on???

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Big Mike

07-28-2001 22:17:02

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Re: Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP! in reply to gary, 07-28-2001 20:08:29

Brake clyinder hone is a long shaft with spring loaded arms and a long flat stone at the end of the arm...smaller ones have 2 stones larger ones have 3. Measure the hole and go to the parts store and get one that fits. The other style of hone is a twisted wire with wires protruding from center and little ball shaped stones on the end of the wires for this job you want the first style I described. The hone is inserted into the hole and spun with a drill at slow to med speed work it up and down alot so as not to remove too much in one area. Since the spindle went in with force all you need to remove is a few thousands of an inch so hone a little and check then hone a little more until it slips through both bushings. With solid steel bushings spray with Wd-40 or any like oil this will keep the stones from loading up. With solid brass or brass lined steel bushings use no oil hone them dry. A good practice is to LIGHTLY hone the bore before inserting the bushing in the first place this cleans all the rust and crud from the bore making the bush slide right in without distorting it..Big Mike

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gary

07-29-2001 10:06:15

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Re: Re: Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP! in reply to Big Mike, 07-28-2001 22:17:02

Thanks much for the excellent advice. I think I've got it....Gary

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07-28-2001 20:14:48

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Re: Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP! in reply to gary, 07-28-2001 20:08:29

You'll probably have to ream it to fit. You might try a brake-cylinder hone if it's just a little shy of fitting. The bushings are sometimes a little oversize for the spindles, because you can take metal away, but you can't put it back.

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gary

07-28-2001 20:52:30

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Re: Re: Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP! in reply to bg, 07-28-2001 20:14:48

Hey, thanks for the quick response. It seems that I'd grow old while trying to hone this thing down. I had to mutilate the old bushing to remove them and believe me....that is the hardest steel in existance. I'm not familiar with a brake cylinder hone. Is it basically a curved file? I did succeed in driving the housing down onto the spindle with a sledge, hoping that it would loosed some once it got past the bushing, but it tightened up again when it got on the lower bushing. You couldn't turn the spindle at all. Thanks again....Gary

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walt Golembiewski

07-30-2001 03:49:42

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Re: Re: Re: Jubilee spindle won't slide thru. HELP! in reply to gary, 07-28-2001 20:52:30

I had a similair problem when I replaced the bushings on my NAA last Month. I was a bit confused since the I&T and Ford manuals stated that you didn't have to re-size the bushings. After posting a note on this board I received an email which helped explain.

I had a very difficult time removing the old bushings, they were thru hardened and very brittle and it was difficult to drill them. I got a couple of carbide tipped reamers and was able after which seemed like hours to get the bushings removed. I got "NO NAME" replacment bushings from the local Used Equipment Dealer - and there really wasn't any name on the box except that they were made in England. I pressed/pounded the new bushings in and the spindles wouldn't even come close to starting. I also noticed that they were "soft" and easily deformed. I received an email in response to my posting that said to use only orginal Ford New Holland bushings. The Ford replacements were hardened like the orginals and won't deform like the soft "NO Name" replacemnts durings press in. I then went to the Dealer and picked up the bushings which he had in stock - $12.00 for all four. I found that I was able to remove the soft "No Name" bushings within minutes, and easily pressed in the replacement Ford bushings. The spindle went in easily with no loosness. Since I had also replaced the Axle pivot bushings with the same "No Name" brand. I went back and got a Ford pivot bushing and replaced it has well. It also pressed in easier and fit better.

Also, for those of you with worn spindles, the Dealer told me that there are several places that will rebuild the worn area and regrind for about $40 a spindle vs buying a new replacement one which are about $95 from the Dealer and $70 aftermarket.

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