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Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier?

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Carl C

06-22-2002 08:46:15




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Hi everyone I'm new to the world of tractors. I've just aquired my first tractor a 1938 Minneapolis-Moline UTS. The motor appears to be rusted stuck I'm currently soaking the cylinders in PB blaster. If it gets down to it and I need to rebuild the motor Where do I find the parts? Can I do an in-frame rebuild? And why do I have different size spark plugs in the two different heads? I heard on another forum I should soak the cylinders in Marvel Mystery Oil for a month to break it free. Opinions?

This tractors main purpose is going to be snow removal so I don't need anything fancy.

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reddog

06-24-2002 03:52:24




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 Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Carl C, 06-22-2002 08:46:15  
Knock center out a spark plug weld 1/8 pipe coupling in spark plug put grease zerk in it.put in cyl.that is nearest to top,make sure valves are closed,pump gease in with good hand pump gun ,sometimes I have used 2 cyl,&2 grease guns,has worked well for me over last 20 years.ps at last you might have to put cheater pipe on gun pump handle



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Kelvin

06-22-2002 18:17:06




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 Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Carl C, 06-22-2002 08:46:15  
If you really have a '38 UTS and it has two cylinderheads, you've either read the serial number wrong, or its got the wrong engine in it, because MM didn't make a split-block U engine until about 1948. If it's a '38 it will have a grille screen that reminds you of a '32 Ford.

If your heads have different size plugs, check the casting number. Chances are one starts 'GE' and the other starts '10A'

So far, I've fixed 2 U engines and a G engine. two of them were stuck. I've heard of soaking engines in Marvel Mystery Oil, Olive Oil, Diesel Fuel, Penetrating Oil-so I guess PB Blaster counts.

To get mine unstuck, I've never been able just to soak one free. I drove 2 engines apart with an oak post I turned to fit the bore and a sledge. The last time, I just put the block of wood on the piston and put my 8-ton jack on top. Then I put a loop of my heaviest log chain around the oil pan and across the top of the ram on the jack and used the jack to force the piston down. If you try any of this, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

As far as an "in tractor" overhaul Its kind of relative: you can't get the big end of the rods to go up the 4-1/4" bore, so you have to take the blocks off anyway.

The way I'll do it next time is drop the oil pan, take the heads and blocks off, then determine if I'm going to take the crankcase off/out of the tractor.

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Carl C

06-22-2002 20:57:03




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 Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Kelvin, 06-22-2002 18:17:06  
Kelvin
I'm sorry, it's a 1948. It sounds like I might have to tear into this I'm gonna wait and see first. if I have to tear into it Where would I find rings and bearings and such?

thanks Carl



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Dave N

06-23-2002 14:03:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Carl C, 06-22-2002 20:57:03  
Welters 417-498-6496



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mark m

07-31-2002 23:41:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Dave N, 06-23-2002 14:03:53  
I AGREE WELTERS IS AGREAT SOURCE FOR PARTS THEY HELP ME A LOT HIGHLY RECOMMEND FOR M-M PARTS



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Lucas

06-22-2002 11:39:13




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 Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Carl C, 06-22-2002 08:46:15  
If it isn't stuck very badly, then take off the crankcase cover and try pushing them up. It might be hard with a moline engine though.



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Carl C

06-23-2002 20:54:10




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 Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Lucas, 06-22-2002 11:39:13  
Lucus
I'm guessing it's stuck real good as that it took a three foot breaker bar to pull #3 spark plug.

I've been thinking there's a couple tractor stores an hour's drive away that might have the rings, bearings, and gasket set that I need.

Carl C



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Dave

07-02-2002 21:08:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Carl C, 06-23-2002 20:54:10  
Carl: I just did a complete overhaul on my 1949 U. Be carefull when you start trying to remove pistons from the block. Log chains, oak timbers, and sledge hammers always make me real nervous. Go to one of your neighbors who has a hydraulic arbor press and knows how to use it, should be able to press them right out. If your blocks aren't to far out of whack and you aren't builing a puller, you should be able to remove any ridge, hone the cylinders and re ring the pistons. NAPA should be able to get you a set of Hastings rings. I had M & W overboar 4 ring pistons and had no problem getting the correct rings. I was visiting a message board and some fellas were mentioning that they prefered replacement with cast iron rings vs chromium rings because of seating concerns. Mine is finished, converted over to 12 volt, electronic ignition, alternator, fires up like turning on an electric motor. Runs great. For tons of expertise go to welters (missouri), and motec (indianapolis). Great people

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Andy

06-22-2002 14:01:09




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 Re: Re: Minneapolis-Moline Parts Supplier? in reply to Lucas, 06-22-2002 11:39:13  
When you try t break it free for the first time make sure your valves are free. take the valve covers off and check them. If you don't you could bend a rocker arm, gouge a cam lobe.



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