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RE engine?

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D-17Dave

12-12-2001 15:58:03




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Need help on my first M-M tractor. I have a 48 ZTU with an RE engine, and my ? is with the engine stuck, if the cylinders are pitted can the blocks be bored oversized or are they now just doorstops? Also how much and where can I get valves? Thanks in advance for your help, and are there any weak or bad points to watch out for on this engine? Dave.




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DLP

12-17-2001 09:31:50




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 Re: RE engine? in reply to D-17Dave, 12-12-2001 15:58:03  
You can overbore these engines, mine is overbored about .180". Welters sold me these pistons that are made by Jahn's, I believe. I think they are .060 over jetstar pistons, but don't take me for sure on that, I'd have to check in my shop for it. I had a boat motor repair shop bore mine because they are a blind hole. The Chevy valves are wonderful, I have a full set in mine.



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D-17Dave

12-13-2001 15:18:26




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 Re: RE engine? in reply to D-17Dave, 12-12-2001 15:58:03  
Thanks again for the help on the valves. I'm sure that will save me a bundle. I don't have the blocks off yet, so I don't know how bad the cyl. walls are, maybe this weekend. If they arn't toast where's the cheapest place to get decent rings and bearings? Also is there anything else on this engine or tractor I need to know before I mess up something that'll realy eat my pocketbook? Best Holiday wishes Dave.

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Jeremy

12-13-2001 18:20:17




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 Re: Re: RE engine? in reply to D-17Dave, 12-13-2001 15:18:26  
Dave

After you get the blocks off turn them over (upside down) and put something like WD-40 or diesel in the cylinders the liquid will work around the bottom of the piston and through the oil ring it will help speed up getting the pistons out. You may want to set them outside so they don't leak on your floor. Some times it takes a while. Two liter pop bottles with the tops cut off fit snugly over the cylinders and are tall enough for the rods to stick up if you have to leave them out side for a while. Normaly putting penetrating liquids in the bottom of the piston gets them out with in a week or a few hours but I have a couple blocks that I've been doing this for a year know and they haven't came out yet. Those blocks set off a tractor so they rusted top and bottom it's hard to say what they will be like. I normaly weight befor I try to remove them till their isn't much liquid above the upside down pistons then you know it has worked its way clear through the cylinders in one spot at least.

I'd sugest getting a set of Hastings rings. Try an MM dealer for the rod and main bearings you may look at them and think it is a waste of money replacing them. Most of the time they are still in very good shape on the MM engines but it dosen't hurt to look at them. The Unoffical MM home page has a page with people that supply MM parts.

If you have any questions feel free to ask there are lots of people here that like helping!

When you put it back together don't tighen the blocks down till the head is torqued down. That way the blocks can square up to the head easier.

Good Luck!
Jeremy

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Jeremy

12-12-2001 18:15:26




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 Re: RE engine? in reply to D-17Dave, 12-12-2001 15:58:03  
I wouldn't worry about the pits in the cylinders if the rings don't catch in them. This is what I've been told to do with pitted cylinders and have had no problems with it. Put a set of quality cast rings in it the pits should fill with carbon after a while. The KEY is cast rings. Make sure that the rings don't catch in a pit, if they do you will have to do something differen't. I haven't ever bought oversized pistions for these so I don't know if you can get them try an old MM dealer they would know. Finding someone that can bore those blocks is hard!!! Do what you want and feel comfortable with. I don't feel I need lots of money in a praide tractors engine but I can't have any problems with it either. The Z I pull has pitted cylinders the engine was stuck, one of the blocks had bad enough pits that the rings did catch so I did have to have a standard block bored .40 over which the engine was already at. That was better than 3000 hrs ago. We have done it to others and had no problems.

I haven't tried this but I was told that 250 six cylinder chevy valves will work they are the same length, stem dia, head dia. Again I haven't checked into this so do a little research. Some times that stuff works some times it dosen't. If you find out anything please let me know.

Thanks and good luck
Jeremy

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Joe Leising

12-12-2001 19:02:21




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 Re: Re: RE engine? in reply to Jeremy, 12-12-2001 18:15:26  
I can say that the chevy valve is "the" way to go on this. I know some guys say "it ain't original", but how often do you have to tear on e down to prove that. Any way, I have done several of this style engine using Chevy valves. I'm not sure exactly what engine. My machinist that does my head work just said small block chevy. My advice is take a set, one intake one exhaust, or both blocks with valves to a good shop you trust and tell them to match up the old valves to new chevy valves. You will be glad you did especially if you have them install hardened seats. You will be able to run unleaded with no valve problems.

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Jeremy

12-13-2001 18:21:19




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 Re: Re: Re: RE engine? in reply to Joe Leising, 12-12-2001 19:02:21  
Thanks for the info Joe!



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