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Please help! RE: MM G1000 RC Diesel Freeze Plugs

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Brad Ramsay

08-17-2000 08:08:58

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The freeze plugs between the heads and cylinder blocks have rusted through on a tractor that sat for 10 years. The motor was rebuilt 11 years ago, and runs well. It sat for so long because the freeze plugs only held out for 2 months after rebuild, and the owner was understandably discouraged. Being a "weekend warrior mechanic", I have the following questions:

1. How do you install new freeze plugs to insure that they don't leak?

2. Below each freeze plug in each cylinder block, there is an accumulation of rust scale. Do I need to remove this? Can I flush it out after I get the motor back together (I am removing center head and cylinder block to access freeze plugs that are leaking), any other suggestions for getting accumulation out?

3. Do I have to remove the oil pan and disconnect the piston rods to get the cylinder block off? (i.e. remove block and pistons as a unit)

4. What is best way to flush cooling system?

5. Any other tips relative to this project would be greatly appreciated (this is my first semi-major motor job).

--Thanks!

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Roger

08-21-2000 08:14:50

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Re: Please help! RE: MM G1000 RC Diesel Freeze Plugs in reply to Brad Ramsay, 08-17-2000 08:08:58

I have fixed a G and my 605 irrigation motor by making a tool to hold the freeze plugs in place.
Clean between the blocks, install the new plugs. Make a short "T" bar from 5/16 ths rod. It will take some grinding to make it the right length. Weld a nut on the long end of the T . Place the small end with the T on it between the blocks and turn it using the nut. This will hold both freeze plugs in place. You can leave the T bar wedged in place and the end laying on the crankcase. After you have done this several times you will get to where you can remove the T bar and still have the freeze plugs so they will come out if it freezes. It is somewhat like pushing strips in from each side to hold them. This is not the way I like to fix things but, when its a 104 degrees in July and the row crops need water you do things like this.
I have run the 605 for 12 years doing this. As soon as it needs an overhaul I will get around to fixing it right. Maybe.

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philo

08-21-2000 07:13:54

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Re: Please help! RE: MM G1000 RC Diesel Freeze Plugs in reply to Brad Ramsay, 08-17-2000 08:08:58

I have a similiar situation with my g1000 vista gasoline. I bought it knowing that the freeze plugs were pushed out between the jugs and also a couple of the head plugs were pushed out. We had a machinist/friend make up a couple of wedges out of long peices of metal that we could slide in from both sides. The key is to clean the recession out well and I use aviation gasket compound. It is tricky getting one started but it can be done with patience and a magnet. I bought this tractor and it also runs well but the former owner had let it freeze up. We put the plugs in and put water in it and it turns out that we have some problems, probably in the heads. I am told they crack in the intake ports and cannot be fixed . I haven't pulled them yet to see and make sure it is just in the heads. If you don't want to take the motor apart you can try this route. I don't know how well they will hold. I have been told that freeze plugs blew out on fairly new tractors when they were being used. As for the scale that builds up you can take the water manifold off the jugs and take out the drain cocks and the freeze plugs on the side and use a power washer. I would at least take the hose off the top of the radiator so nothing will spill over into the radiator if the thermostat opens up. You could take that housing off the top of the heads as well. I just offer this information as an alternative to taking the motor apart.

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Richard Winters

08-20-2000 20:14:58

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Re: Please help! RE: MM G1000 RC Diesel Freeze Plugs in reply to Brad Ramsay, 08-17-2000 08:08:58

It sounds like you might have a electralisiys problem. To install the new freeze plugs just scrape out the freeze plug hole and wire brush it clean using a wire brush in and electric drill. I use a permatex gasket sealer on the ledge on the block, set the new freeze plug in place and expand it by using a ballpean hammer, never had one leak or come out. You can install the block back down over the pistons if you have the right kind of ring compressor, it is a two person job. The regular band type compressor that uses a rachet to tighten against the rings will not work. Hastings makes a set of ring squeezers that will work fine on this kind of installation. The squeezer can be opened up and slipped onto the piston and then the rings can be tightened down. The pistons need to be off set and slip one at a time into the block. Is better than taking off the pan and removing the rods and installing them the traditional way. If not carefull you could break a ring. Good luck. If this sounds to complicated you can always remove pan and go that route. Let me know how it works out.

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