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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum
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m5 rearend hydrualic questions

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Junkman

01-07-2008 07:42:53




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I am in the middle of swapping out the rear end on my m5. The shaft that drives the hydro pump does not seem to want to come out with the rear end. Currently trying to remove rear end and leave the shaft in. Is there something holding the shaft in the clutch, or should it just slide out? The rear end going back in still has the shaft in it. I.T. manual doesn't show any pics of the assembly. Also there were 2 metal pieces one on each side of the case in combo with the plate gasket, Does anyone carry the plate gasket and the rubber rings that go around the telo flow passages? Any thoughts? Thanks

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Curt Cooke

01-08-2008 06:25:50




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 Re: m5 rearend hydrualic questions in reply to Junkman, 01-07-2008 07:42:53  
Junkman, than entire long shaft can be withdrawn from the rear or you can split the tractor and tap it out rearward. They will fight you because the splines in the clutch end have been engaged for a long time and there is a brass bushing between where you are and the other end of the shaft. Get some pry pressure rearward on that shaft and use a punch in the divit in the shaft that takes the set screw for the PTO clutch to encourage the shaft out of there. It can be tough and you may have to use the other method -split the tractor but you are on the right track and there's nothing else bolted or attached that you're going to damage by trying to get it out the way you are going about it. Just make sure all of the PTO parts are loose and out of the way. Welter's has all those O-rings you're talking about.
Curt

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Junkman

01-08-2008 07:21:45




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 Re: m5 rearend hydrualic questions in reply to Curt Cooke, 01-08-2008 06:25:50  
Thanks Curt, I just got off the phone with wendell everrette and he said pretty much the same thing. Now i am thinking maybe i should leave that shaft in to dodge some alignment fun when setting in the good rear end. At least i can see the pto clutch and bearings and get to them. all ready got a good work out with a sledge before realizing the shaft was keeping the rear from coming backwards. Not real wild about removing the tranny also, this old beast is kind of top heavy with the rear off. any ideas on some dope to put on the gaskets? Wendell also pointed out some more fun on setting the ring and pinion lash, didn't think about that, i was gonna toss that gasket and silicone the cases, not now.

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Curt Cooke

01-08-2008 08:21:50




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 Re: m5 rearend hydrualic questions in reply to Junkman, 01-08-2008 07:21:45  
Splitting them is always hair raising if you (like me) don't have the prescribed stands, etc. But if you put the rear end case back together with the tranny case a minute and then split the machine at the bell housing, you'll be able to easily tap that shaft out and that's what I would recommend. Then you can start over with the rear end. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep on the backlash adjustments, get them close and get on with it. These things may have been perfect and perfection may have been attainable 45 years ago but perfection is no longer available. I would use a silicone product on the gaskets like "The Right Stuff" or a NAPA product in a cheese whiz type dispenser. Not too much of it of course.

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joho

01-08-2008 02:16:11




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 Re: m5 rearend hydrualic questions in reply to Junkman, 01-07-2008 07:42:53  
Save those metal plates, You'll need them when you reassemble. Everette Moline can supply the other parts.



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