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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum
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MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD

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billybunter

01-16-2007 14:53:16




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Hi
I have a 705 that is difficult to start and doesnt want to run evenly on all pots until very warm, I suspect worn cylinders. Can the cylinder blocks be over bored to take larger pistons? Does anyone know what is included in the engine kits sold on this site. Can anyone suggest the best or a good supplier for the parts I may need? Might I get away with de-glazing the bores and fitting and gapping oversize piston rings.
Thanks for now

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Chuck S.

01-17-2007 18:01:31




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-16-2007 14:53:16  
The MM diesels were very poor cold starting, but most tractors of that type system were. If you have a lot of blow-by and the engine is running rough. Try checking the injector washer, some washers were made of transiteor asbestos as well as copper. If I recall right the loss of this seal allows compression into valve covers and crankcase. Best install a block heater. Good Luck.



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Curt Cooke

01-17-2007 07:52:50




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-16-2007 14:53:16  
Before you get started, be very sure that you want to because it gets real expensive and ultimate gratification can be elusive. A 705 is a hard start, run rough until warmed up machine in general. I would take a simpler step by step approach. Go after the energy cells and injectors. If that doesn't do it, go for the pump and if that doesn't do it, then think about going after the engine guts. If you have alot of blow-bye, then yes, you probably have cylinder, piston and rings problems but correcting that may not have a significant impact on starting. Parts are no problem as long as money is not a problem.

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billybunter

01-17-2007 12:43:45




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to Curt Cooke, 01-17-2007 07:52:50  
Hi Guys thanks for the replies. Were these tractors poor cold starters when new? I havent had the tractor long so have no history other than I think it has been heavily ethered.I have also tried this method but tend to favour a hot torch in the air intake but either way the tractor spits and bangs for ages with quite a lot of bluish smoke. Any idea on what cylinder compression should be as this might be a worthwhile check. What do you think? Could a little metal be skimmed from the heads to increase compression and would this perhaps help starting? Any ideas would be appreciated.

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eric berglund

01-19-2007 05:08:06




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-17-2007 12:43:45  
Perhaps it would start better with the addition of an electric manifold pre heater from the mm 585 engine. I know it will fit and the 705 intake manifold has a place for it to be installed.



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len

01-17-2007 20:16:11




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-17-2007 12:43:45  
If the compression is decent on all cylinders, it will start at 50 degrees with a tiny shot of ether, and spitting and heavy smoke will be gone within 30 seconds. If compression is low, heavy smoke and spitting will hang on and power will be down. They are cold blooded compared to modern diesels. Every 10 degrees of ambient temperature makes a very noticeable diffence in starting and the initial running. I disagree on one point. My 706 went from disgusting to enjoyable after an overhaul, so it was very satisfying.. But overhaul parts will cost at least $1000, and if you have to pay someone for boring, valve job, etc., add lots for labor. And it gets worse fast if you have to pull the engine and have the crank ground. Based on what you've said, the injection pump isn't your problem, but send that out for a rebuild and you're out another $600 or so.

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Curt Cooke

01-17-2007 12:52:49




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-17-2007 12:43:45  
A compression check would be huge. I have rebuilt three of these guys and wished I had the means to check compression. In my case the results would have been the same so it's not like I wasted time effort and money. In one case, the blow by was severe enough to blow the dipstick out, a definite indication of trouble. In another case, the blow by was so severe that a previous owner had plumbed the blow by to the back of the tractor so he didn't have to breathe, see or smell it. In the third case I was starting with an engine that was stuck so I had to go in anyway. I think a comression check would speak volumes.

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Len

01-16-2007 21:18:34




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-16-2007 14:53:16  
How hard does it start??? You'll probably find some broken rings. You can spend a lot of time & money chasing other fixes, but it won't start and run right without compression. I'd also bet that cylinders are worn enough that you need rebore with new pistons and rings. Is this tractor new to you or do you know most of it's history? At any rate, expect to spend $$$. Also, be aware that diesels behave that way if some rod bearings are gone. I doubt that's the problem on a MM, but it's still a possibility.

By the way, I'm not saying that you can rule out energy cells or injectors, and in all probability they need cleaning. But I doubt that's your primary problem.

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Moline_guy

01-16-2007 18:35:11




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-16-2007 14:53:16  
I agree with Chuck, i think you need to get the heads, injectors, injection pump, and possibly valves done first. Usually they will burn oil if cylnders are worn or rings are broke. Good luck whatever you decide.



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Chuck S.

01-16-2007 15:45:12




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to billybunter, 01-16-2007 14:53:16  
Yes the cyl can be bored. But I would suggest that you clean the energy cells first. Also have the injectors cleaned . This sounds to be your problem. When they set the popoff pressure dont go over 200 psi over factory setting. This will keep the spray pattern going into the energy cellany higher pressure changes the spray pattern and makes more smoke less power,harder starting.



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Jake Winn

01-17-2007 23:12:37




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 Re: MM 705 ENGINE RE-BUILD in reply to Chuck S., 01-16-2007 15:45:12  
One more thing to keep in mind when you get it running better is to make sure your starting system is up to snuff also. I have a MF 97 (same as 705). It has about 6700 hours on it and has never been opened up. I have had the pump and injectors rebuilt. It starts good without ether down to about 50 degrees as long as the battery is charged well. I have built and installed heavy cables, (welding cable is best) and ran the ground cable right to the starter. I have two optima batteries on it to whip it over good. If it starts to slow down when cranking, it makes a huge difference. Has anyone ever put a gear reduction starter on one of these beasts? Good luck.

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