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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum
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12 volt converions MM UTU and Farmall H

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dem45133

10-22-2006 07:09:38




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Actually I've been using a 12 volt in it for years but without any generator. Probably not the way best to go... but seems runn just fine. But... I do have to charge the battery every couple months.

I've heard of a 12 volt alt that is self regulating... think it was a delco, that was a simple charging circuit. I do not need a full kit as I can make any bracketry. But I do not know which delco or other brand number it is. Do any of you?

Already converted the starter solenoid.

Also... I suppose I was supposed to place a resistor in the ignition feed to the points? I didn't change anything on the coil or points. Likely asking for trouble maybe... but its been this way for 7 years now.

Anyway need info to fully complete this conversion.

I need to also do the same on an Farmall H. Currently I'm running two battaries in two separate curcuits. Both using a common positive ground. One is simply for the starter in 12 volt. (the six vt just would never turn it well enough...). But the ingition and generator is still 6 vt. The 6 vt battry is history... Have to hook the charger to it to get spark... start it and then let the generator provide the current to the ignition. Battery simply will not accept any. Rather than buy another 6 vt, I prefer to convert this over properly as well. Need info for this but can not buy complete expensive kits.

Thanks
Dave
Hillsboro, OH

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dem45133

10-23-2006 17:24:29




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 Re: 12 volt converions MM UTU and Farmall H in reply to dem45133, 10-22-2006 07:09:38  
Thanks... they look like all the info I need. I appreciate it.



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Bob

10-22-2006 10:38:17




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 Re: 12 volt converions MM UTU and Farmall H in reply to dem45133, 10-22-2006 07:09:38  
Avoid the goofy "one-wire" alternators, and get a 10SI DELCO, such as for a mid-70's Chevy pickup. Some guys are using small Japanese alternators that connect the same way the Delco 10SI does.

The one-wire alternators need SPEED to excite at startup, so often, that means "goosing" the engine at startup to get them to charge, AND they tend to be prone to slowly discharging the battery during periods of non-use.

It is REALLY simple to connect up a standard "3-wire" Delco alternator (or Japanese equivalent), and, likely the standard alternator will cost LESS. I have coverted MANY old tractors with used alternators from auto recyling yards, bought for as little as $10.00, and still working YEARS later.

Here's what a Delco 10SI looks like:

Third Party Image

The diode shown prevents the alternator from backfeeding current into the ignition system (battery ignition... coil and distributor), causing the engine to run on when the ignition is shut off. If you want, a dash-mounted "idiot light" is a direct swap for the diode.

BobM, over on the Farmall Board, has graciously made available a set up diagrams for various IH tractors, or you can find one close enough to use on about any other brand, as these old machines are typically set up in a very similar fashion. Below is a link to his diagrams. He DOES use "idiot lights" in place of the diode shown in my photo, but as I said, you can use whichever YOU prefer... they function equally well.

Post back with any questions!

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T.R.K.

10-24-2006 17:46:13




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 Re: 12 volt converions MM UTU and Farmall H in reply to Bob, 10-22-2006 10:38:17  
O.K. I've looked at the diagrams and the picture you post here.
I understand everything except why a diode where you would otherwise use a bulb, as the bulb should flow current either direction (unless its a special bulb with a built-in diode in it or some such) and the diode only permits current one way.

And then I wonder why not use about a 15 ohm resistor in place of the bulb-provided I applied the old current formula correctly.

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Bob

10-25-2006 21:57:16




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 Re: 12 volt converions MM UTU and Farmall H in reply to T.R.K., 10-24-2006 17:46:13  
The bulb LIMITS the feedback of current OUT of the alternator's #1 terminal to a safe level, which, if not limited, can cause the engine to "run on" when the ignition switch is shut off, AND functions as an indicator light.

The diode eliminates current feedback altogether.

The resistor will do the same function as the bulb, but is not as easy to mount or conceal out of the way, because the resistor can get fairly warm, and really shouldn't be taped up in the harness, so you need a way to insulate it and mount it.

So, I find it easier to use the "idiot lamp" method, when the indicator is desired, or simply use the diode when an indicator light is NOT needed or desired. The diode gives off almost no heat, so it can be taped out of the way in the wiring harness.

So, why use the HOT, relatively fragile ceramic resistor?????

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