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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum
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UB Brakes

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MMEd

12-13-2004 17:13:32




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Having a problem with UB brakes that won't even think of slowing the tractor down. Adjustments full in (shortest length rods) Pedals work fine and linkage moves but no braking. Have opened up right side and pulled discs - one is 0.490 and other 0.510 thick. Understand new disks are only 0.565 so I am not sure this is enough wear to explain problem especially at full adjustment. Still have to figure out how to get left out as it has live PTO, but based on brake performance, I don't expect anything different. Any help including verifying full thickness would be appreciated.

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MMEd

12-13-2004 18:31:25




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 Re: UB Brakes in reply to MMEd, 12-13-2004 17:13:32  
Springs OK, seems to actuate OK, but limited to about 1/2" rotation at OD due to ears and housing - no oil / grease on surfaces in fact some light rust. Tractor sat for a couple of years before I got into it. Wonder if they machined and failed to compensate by machining face at OD of cover - any way to check measurements? or just throw disks at it and see if nominal adjustment works? Also I found an old post that said new was 0.625 thick not 0.565 - anyone know for sure? Sources of disks at reasonable prices or do I just go to clutch house and have relined? Thanks. Ed

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Curt Cooke

12-14-2004 06:27:04




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 Re: UB Brakes in reply to MMEd, 12-13-2004 18:31:25  
Ed, you might as well call Welters and have them send you a couple of new discs. My machine shop, for instance, will not do any final machining until I get them new discs. They do the measuring as I don't have the tools nor the inclination to do it myself.



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Curt Cooke

12-13-2004 17:54:50




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 Re: UB Brakes in reply to MMEd, 12-13-2004 17:13:32  
It's possible that your discs are of a tolerable width and still the brakes fail. To do this job right takes machining, new discs, new springs. All braking surfaces should be machined flat just like you would a flywheel when doing a clutch. That means the inner most surface, the two surfaces of the actuator and the outside surface. The balls in the actuator should be inspected and at least determined to be the correct size. The springs on the actuator should be replaced. The outermost surface (the brake housing) should be machined down to make up for whatever is shaved off all the surfaces to make them flat. All that being done and new discs and those wheels will stop if you as much as look at the brake pedal. The left side is the same story except for the complication of that clutch. Good luck, I've done this several times.

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Kelvin

12-13-2004 17:53:38




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 Re: UB Brakes in reply to MMEd, 12-13-2004 17:13:32  
Well in total that's .130 wear, if new disks are .565 (Just over 1/8".) You might be using up all the travel of the linkage to adjust the brakes. The actuators look good, don't they? No broken springs and the balls all there and ramps not badly worn?
No grease on the linings is there?
You might want to take the springs off the actuator and see how far it has to move to expand 1/8".
Also check how far the clevis pin moves, to see if that'w where all your adjustment goes.
I think I would try some new disks. And renew the seals on that side, too.

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