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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum
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Need Mechanical Advice on UTS

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JC

04-16-2004 00:39:13




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I had a bit of horrible luck with my UTS.
Somehow while my hired man was working with it,
the tractor ran low on oil.
It overheated and started knocking. He shut it down, but by then it was too late.
This is a good tractor, great hydraulics and it runs like a champ.
How expensive are U engines to repair? How much should I expect to pay for parts?
I will change out the ring gear on the flywheel at the same time as it is toast also.
How hard of a job am I looking at here, and again, cost of this repair? Besides a crank grinding and bearings, should I re ring it also and do the valves?

The tractor has fair tires, a decent paint job and sheet metal. Steering and transmission is good.

The reason I ask, is I would hate to put a couple thousand into a tractor that may not be worth that much after the repairs are completed.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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Captainhookerus

04-16-2004 08:26:37




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 Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to JC, 04-16-2004 00:39:13  
Contact [email protected] He has a good 283 for sale



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Kelvin

04-16-2004 07:32:36




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 Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to JC, 04-16-2004 00:39:13  
I would hate to see you junk it, but the answer depends on what you intend to do with it. You say you like it, but it sounds like its for sale if the right money comes along.

The last U crank I had ground cost around $400, but It went thru 2 other machine shops before I got it back, so each tacked on their markup. (I should have kept up with where it was-I Could have hauled it to the shop in Charlotte NC myself cheaper than that.) I see in a catalog here a crank kit is $239 bearings included. Rings, std. are $109. Head gasket set 109.99, conversion set (rest of gaskets) 94.99.
That doesn't include grinding valves, honing cylinders, crankshaft seals (NAPA), the ring gear or labor. These are last years prices so they probably rose some, too.

You ask how hard it is-If you have experience with engines its no harder than an automobile engine, except the parts are larger and you have to take the sheer weight of the components ito consideration. For instance, the big end of the rod won't go through the cylinders, so you have to put the pistons and rods in before you re-install the blocks. This makes each assembly weigh 100 lb or a little more.

I've found out its easier to take the engine apart in the tractor-heads, cylinder blocks & pistons, etc.- and then remove the crankcase and crank and flywheel (split the tractor) last.

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Gerald

04-16-2004 18:24:08




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 Re: Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to Kelvin, 04-16-2004 07:32:36  
Overhauled my U last year. Rods came through the cylinders no problem.



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Bill

04-16-2004 17:34:54




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 Re: Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to Kelvin, 04-16-2004 07:32:36  

The U rods will pass through the bores with no problem it is the 336 rods that wont pass through until the block is bored .060 oversize.



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Kelvin

04-16-2004 18:29:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to Bill, 04-16-2004 17:34:54  
Guys, it has been 3-4 years, but I'm sure I had problems with the rod big ends not going through the cylinders.



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Hoss

04-16-2004 19:32:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Need Mechanical Advice on UTS in reply to Kelvin, 04-16-2004 18:29:59  
Bill is right, the "U" rods will pass through the cylinders, The "G"gas rods will not as they use larger rod bearings. Point of interest, the early 6 cylinder "G" diesel rods will pass through the cylinders as they use "U" rod bearings. The later "GB" Diesel uses larger bearings as in the "G" gas and will not pass through. I know this from rebuilding all four of these tractors, among others.



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