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Minneapolis Moline Tractors Discussion Forum

Tractor Starter Question

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JKC

12-21-2003 16:49:46

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I just got my starter "rebuilt" at the local start expert's place. Spent plenty of time hooking the thing up (twice now) only to find that it engaged the flywheel one time and cranked a little bit, then stopped and would do no more. When I checked on it, I could see that the starter gear is still engaged with the flywheel gear. What would make a starter gear NOT retract, away from the flywheel, like it is suppose to? I need to know if this starter genius "stiffed" me, or if this is something I can fix. I would appreciate ANY ideas!

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anonymous Broadwell,IL

12-27-2003 17:17:44

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Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to JKC, 12-21-2003 16:49:46

do you know if your "rebuilder" is reputable and/or knowledgable in antique starters? next, is your application that of a stock replacement or application? sometimes during restoration parts may be inter-changed and cause other problems. for instance, starter rebuilers can easily but accidentally install the wrong drive. one tooth difference on starter drive teeth can change cause gear-tooth binding. if you were to replace the starter-ring gear(with maybe a changed flywheel) with a will/fit/part you could cause a similar problem.

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12-21-2003 16:56:43

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Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to JKC, 12-21-2003 16:49:46

You don't say what starter you are working with.

Some types of drives don't retract until the engine starts. It also could be that there isn't enough clearance between the ring gear and the starter drive gear.

John

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JKC

12-21-2003 17:06:04

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Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to JK, 12-21-2003 16:56:43

I am actually not sure what starter I am working with. It is an older one, off of my 1955 MM Uni-Tractor. I actually thought about there not being enough clearance between the gears, but how do you fix that?

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Kelvin

12-21-2003 17:13:07

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Re: Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to JKC, 12-21-2003 17:06:04

What little I know about Uni's is that it takes LOTS of amps to crank one, because the motor has to drive not only the engine but the belts and cross shaft to the transmission. The bendix teeth do stay engaged in the flywheel until the engine fires.

You do have this starter installed in a V-4 Uniharvestor now, don't you? I think they turn backwards from regular MM tractors, at least the generators do.

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JKC

12-21-2003 18:10:59

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to Kelvin, 12-21-2003 17:13:07

Yes, the starter is indeed installed in the V4 Uni-Harvestor. I have a brand new battery with what I would consider plenty of Cold Cranking Amps available, but it only turns it over once, then stops. Should I try to jump-start the thing? If so, I would not be able to use a 12-volt system, like on my pickup truck, to jump it, correct? The Uni has a 6 volt system.

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BMG

12-21-2003 20:20:18

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to JKC, 12-21-2003 18:10:59

JKC,
Be sure you're using heavy battery cables and that they are well grounded to the engine block or to the starter housing itself. Automotive cables are nowhere near big enough to carry enough amps to start a 6V Uni.

Brian

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JKC

12-22-2003 03:54:22

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to BMG, 12-21-2003 20:20:18

AH HA!!! BINGO!!! Brian and Phil, I believe you have laid your finger on the problem. This unit has at least one battery cable that looks to be a smaller automotive-type cable. That has to be the problem! Back when the unit was starting good for me, it was when I was using a heavier cable. That cable broke, so I went to whatever was available. Based on everything folks have suggested, and my knowledge of the equipment that is on the unit, that makes the most sense. Thank you ALL for your suggestions. I really appreciate it!!

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Phil

12-21-2003 23:15:29

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tractor Starter Question in reply to BMG, 12-21-2003 20:20:18

YES.. clean all your batter connections. REPLACE any cables that are OLD.. Get #2 Guage Cables. They are about 1/2" thick.. seriously..about the size of a dime/nickel in diameter. Also.. Welding cable can work too.

6 volt systems need bigger cables than 12 volt systems. Its all about amperage/current flow. You have to have a good path to get the energy there to do the work. Any corrosion in the battery cables will impead the ability to pass sufficient current to the starter. My UTU used to be a bear to get started until I put new cables on it. Yes, it had a new starter and battery. Cables looked okay.. but tractor cranked slow. I replaced the cables with new ones and MAN what a difference.. it was almost as if it had a 12 volt system.. it cranked alot faster.

Also, check your solenoid. If it is old and nasty, replace it. I have had one of them give me troubles before. It would pass current until it got hot and then short internally and no current would flow through it to the starter.

I assume the person who rebuilt your starter knew it was going on a 6 volt system and built if properly??

Other than that.. I am out of ideas.. unless you convert it to 12 volts.. not out of the realm of things there.. it is easy to do..but takes some planning. You can use the starter as it is.. as long as you do not crank on it forever and get it hot.

Phil

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