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UB Head Bolts

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Steve

06-17-2003 18:43:18




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Have the heads off my UB for valve work. Just have a few questions before putting everything back together. Should the bottom threads of the head bolts be sealed with permatex? What torque values should the head bolts be? An old gentleman I met at an auction several weeks ago claims MM heads should be torqued to 160# to keep them from leaking. Seems high to me. Should a sealer be used on the head gaskets and, if so what type of sealer? Lastly, how do you torque the head bolts under the water manifold?
Thanks for any responses!
Steve

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Steve

06-18-2003 16:56:03




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 Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-17-2003 18:43:18  
Thanks to everyone for the responses.

Steve



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Kevin Moschenrose

06-17-2003 23:34:23




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 Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-17-2003 18:43:18  
The Snap-on tool number is b4203 15/16" Boxed end on one side and 1/2" square drive on the other. I torqued all my headbolts the same 135 and never had a lick of trouble with them. Of course the newer style gasket helps alot too.



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Bill Becker

06-17-2003 21:03:03




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 Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-17-2003 18:43:18  
Steve, the October, 2000 issue of The Prairie Gold Rush magazine contains a letter written to Minneapolis Moline Dealers in the Omaha district. It reads as follows:

Gentlemen,
This is a reminder that some time ago, a bulletin was sent to all dealers on head-torquing. This is a must in order to keep the gaskets from blowing out and also to keep the engine compression from entering the cooling system causing water to be forced out via the radiator cap.

Torque reading of 175 lbs. evenly torqued and in sequence is recommended on tractors listed below:

Gasoline: U, M5
LP: UB, Gvi
Natural Gas: 5 Star, G704, G705, G706

Power Units:
283, 425, 605, 403, 800

On diesel torque reading in 175 lbs. on the 5/8 stud bolts and 135 lbs. in the 9/16 stud bolts again torques evenly and in sequence.

UB Diesel, 5 Star Diesel, M5 Diesel, Gvi Diesel, 705 Diesel, 706 Diesel, 704 Diesel, 283 Diesel, 425 Diesel.

Torque reading on the following tractors is 100 lbs. torqued evenly and in sequence.

335, 445, 4 Star, Jet Star, 206 Power unit, 220 Power unit.

I recently installed the heads on a UTE and torques them to 150 lbs. That's as far as my wrench would read. As far as torquing the bolts under the water manifold, Snap-On sells a 15/16 head bolt adaptor for a torque wrench.

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Bruce

06-17-2003 20:46:19




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 Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-17-2003 18:43:18  
I ran into the same problem dealing with the water jacket side of the head. After asking about it here I found out that some of the tool manufactures make an offset wrench that forms a c to allow you to use a torque wrench. Someone posted a link to Snap On for me but I think I got rid of it. I believe they and Matco make them as possibly do other tool makers. I discovered a mechanic friend already has one so I will borrow his in the future. Bruce.

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Trever Maas-MN

06-17-2003 20:26:59




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 Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-17-2003 18:43:18  
I think I can help you. I just went through a UB engine this last winter.

There is no reason for the studs to be sealed. Reading out of my I&T manual, they say to tighten water and intake/exhaust manifolds before tightening the head and blocks down. Then they say tighten head nuts from center outward and to a torque of 125-130 ft lbs on camshaft side(left side) and 105-110 ft lbs on exhaust manifold side(right side). 160 does seem very high. Have fun getting them there if you try. :)

The book doesn't say anything about using a sealer, but we used the Permatex High Temp Copper RTV on the UB. That Permatex Copper will seal anything, unless you have a cracked block. (We kept on changing out heads and head gaskets on the UTS, due to water in the cylinders, until we finally realized that the block was cracked up near the ridge on both cylinders of one block. The manifold mounts, where it mounts against the head, weren't level so it was putting a lot of stress on the block. We were starting to give up on the Permatex High Temp Copper, until we realized the block was cracked.) It is good stuff! I would stick with the high temp if you do use anything, because of the combustion temperatures that are stressed around the sealing rings on the gaskets.

One more note. Before you try to put the heads back on, the studs are kind of nice to have threaded in the crankcase for alignment reasons. But make sure they are cleaned, wire brushed, and shined up before you try to put the heads on. I'm sure you realized this when you took the heads off. Sometimes the studs can get caked on with dirt and grease so it is hard to remove and install the heads.

Best of luck to you and feel free to ask any more questions if needed.

Regards,

Trever

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Steve

06-18-2003 17:03:26




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 Re: Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Trever Maas-MN, 06-17-2003 20:26:59  
Trever,
I too have a problem with anti-freeze getting into the crankcase. Thats the reason for pulling the heads. The head gaskets were metal with no sealer on them and the front head had a large external oil leak. There was anti-freeze on the bottom side of the gaskets so I suspect the gaskets were leaking. The guy rebuilding the heads has magnufluxed them and found no cracks and said there was no coolant residue on the combustion chamber surfaces. Fingers crossed the heads gaskets are the problem. I don't want to go any further on the tear down. I guess I'll find out when it goes back together.

Steve

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Trever Maas

06-18-2003 17:25:13




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 Re: Re: Re: UB Head Bolts in reply to Steve, 06-18-2003 17:03:26  
Steve,
I guess I would go down further. It's hard to believe that the gaskets would be the problem. Where was the oil leak? Did you try turning over the engine with the plugs out to see if coolant shot out of the holes? It really isn't hard to pull the blocks. We did it with the pistons in, and left the pistons and rods connected to the crank when we installed the block. It took three people but it wasn't too bad. Let's start eliminating things though before we go further down.

Trever

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