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Turbo MM

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geb

02-08-1999 10:21:39




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I am interested in building a MM turbo tractor. I am looking at a M-5. I understand that energy cell tupe injection does not work as well as direct injection in diesel turbos. I've also heard some talk about putting turbos on LP tractors. How much stroke can a diesel and/or LP turbo tractor stand and live. Also is there an alternative to the energy cell diesel heads.
Thanx in advance for any help.

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mm

02-08-1999 14:52:56




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 Re: turbo MM in reply to geb, 02-08-1999 10:21:39  
I hope we can have alot of discussion on this one. First Minnie never made a production six inch stroke ; 403, 605; diesel. Appears 5" stroke is the limit. Two, the Lanova system, energy cells, I have heard that there was an Altitude compensating turbo available for the 504 diesel, I think. Three, There is not diesel alternative cylinder w/o the lanova system. Four, Turbos and Lp will work. A balance line between the mixer and the vaporizer will increase the fuel porportionally to the boost available. The system set up with the turbo blowing trough the LP mixer works best. This can be used w/ at least a 6" stroke. Later,

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john

02-12-1999 12:06:10




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 Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to mm, 02-08-1999 14:52:56  
Yes, there was a altitude compansating turbo for the 504 diesel engine. I have the original literature on how to install it on G1000, G1050, and A4T 1400. It's dated 2-70. It says that it can only be used for more power on the A4T because it has a 'Tuftrided' crankshaft. There are also the Roosa Master specs to rework the pump to.

I am interested in how to turbo a 403 lp engine. Would you run the boost line right into the mouth of the carb? Could I expect this to be a reliable engine? Help me out guys.

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mm

02-12-1999 13:19:36




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 Re: Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to john, 02-12-1999 12:06:10  
The turbo is plumbed into the LP carb, yes. This is called blow-through. Compared to draw-through were the air intakes through the carb first then the turbo. Most consider the blow -through better since the turbocharger doesn't have to compress the fuel, only air. A balance line, 3/8" id, is runs from the regulator to the balance connection on the carb. This lets the regulator up the fuel pressure in porportion to the boost available. Most old Minnies had the balance line hooked up on the orginal equipment. The newer G-1000's didn't though. As far as reliable that depends on the compression ratio being set down to where it is not over compressed when the turbo comes on. Supposedly 6 to 7.1:1 is about right to start with. Ray Hall has a sight: www.turbofast.com that help you figure the turbo you need. If your going to spin it hard don't forget to beef up the bottom end.

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john

02-14-1999 18:34:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to mm, 02-12-1999 13:19:36  
To beef up the bottom end should I make a plate that bolts to the main bearing caps and to where the oil pan bolts to. If I do this what should I do about the oil pan if the bolt holes don't line up at the bell housing?



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mm

02-14-1999 22:04:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to john, 02-14-1999 18:34:02  
You must have already hit the antique tractor pulling discussion board. There are two or three holes in the bellhousing on the underneath side. On a UTS the are used to mount radius rods. On UTU I'm going to bracket the bellhousing to the oil pan on the outside of the oilpan. Also there are UTU's out there with fiberglass oilpans. By comparison I'd rather have the cast iron oilpan with my bracket that the fiberglass pan w/o the girdle. I'm using 1/2" steel plate. Others have used 3/4" aluminum or even thicker than 1" aluminum the choice is yours. Where are you at?

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john

02-16-1999 06:38:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to mm, 02-14-1999 22:04:41  
So what you are saying is that it is better to brace the oil pan to the bell housing than to use a gridle? I have never braced the bottom end of an engine before, so try and bear with my dumb questions. I still don't really understand how you are using the mounting boss under the bell housing to brace to the oil pan. Thanks.



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mike

02-17-1999 17:09:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: turbo MM in reply to john, 02-16-1999 06:38:44  
John, You pointed out the oil pan to bellhousing holes will not line up when the oil pan is spaced down 1/2" for the girdle. I was countering that the oil pan can be connected to the bellhousing with the holes on the underneath side of the bellhousing. It would be on the outside of the oilpan. The bracket would look like a piece of angle iron. At least two of the oil pan to bellhousing holes in the oil pan would have to be tapped so you could bolt though the new bracket to the oil pan holes. Hope this helps, Mike Send e-mail address and I can send u more.

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