Me again now with some questions on MF-35 oil filter

I am still waiting for the manuals to arrive but need to use my new MF-35 so I am starting to gain operational experience with it and I like the machine very much (as long as it is running).

After replacing the battery, solenoid and rebuilding the starter it was starting pretty well but stil not immediately. The engine was cranking at sufficient speed (I would say) to start it up but it needed a little help of some ether. I do not want to use ether because I'm told it will ruin the engine. Yesterday it would only start up on ether and then die when the ether was used up (through the airfilter). It sounded to me like an fuel problem and now checked and cleaned the plumbing and filters. did not have time to check it as my battery was drained. During these attempts I tried to start it (giving the starter time to cool down every now and then)and it looked to me like it was not getting enough oil as it was harder to crank the engine (might have been my imagenation and could only be caused by the battery drain). It started me thinking about checking and cleaning the oilfilter.

I noticed earlier that the oilpressure was way up when the machine was just started and it would settle just nicely in the middle after a short while.

So now for my real questions:
1) Is this behavier normal
2) Do I need to drain (all or some of)the engine oil before removing the oilfilter
3) What should I be checking and servicing?

Thanks again for the info

You have identified the problem as no fuel.

For what it is worth I can empty trash out of the glass filter bowl almost every time gas is added to the tank. I buy gas at the pump. If the filter were solid (add on type) there would be no way of knowing how much trash was accumulating. Transferring gas from a can makes matters worse. Years of inactivity seems to create minor rust conditions that result in the need for constant attention.

Some of the mess invariably gets to the carburetor. The carburetor is cast iron which also rusts. There is a plug on the bottom of the carburetor. Don't forget to pull the plug and drain the trash from the carburetor. Every time gas is added to the tank probably would not be to often.

Just my opinion.

Bill Stanley

I'm still trying to find the right denominations for tyhe types of fuel we are talking about. When I say gas I mean the high octane kind of gas you put in your car. With Petrol (petroleum) I mean the lighter kind of diesel and I beleieve it is the same as kerosene.

Can these engines be hand-started easily?

A picture of the carburetor is at:
Link
artint231_pg1.htm

" Can these engines be hand-started easily? "

Do not know and never intend to try hand starting. If the starter motor will not get it started I do not think you could ever get it started by hand. You might push it off a cliff but that does not sound like a good idea either. :)

Bill Stanley

My MF-35 has a Standard engin that runs on two fuels. You start it up with normal 100% gas and when the engin is at opertating temperature you can switch it over to a 20/80 or 40/60 gas/petroleum mixture. You can however also keep it on 100% gas but is a bit more expensive thats all.

Without the manual it is almost impossible for me to adjust the mixture setting of the carburetor. Do you know the procedure to get at least in the vicinity of the right setting?

Could I do it by turning it totally in and than a certain numbers out again? I do appreciate your replies.

One item at a time.

With the drain plug out of the bottom of the carburetor turn the fuel on and gas should flow freely, like taking a good pee. If not you have a restriction that must be cleared. Three filters. One at the fitting at the carburetor. One at the fuel filter. Think there should be a screen in the fuel tank. Don't stop until the carburetor can take a good pee.

If necessary carburetor cleaning instructions can be found at:
Link
artint231_pg1.htm
Initial carburetor suggestions are at the bottom of the article.

Before I discovered the article I used two turns out on both the high and low speed needles as a beginning adjustment. I cleaned the carburetor first. After starting and warming up the low speed adjustment needle should be set for the highest engine idle in the 400 RPM to 600 RPM range. Worry about the high speed needle after the tractor is running.

My 35 starts in 4 to 6 seconds without the choke and then the choke must be pulled once in 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit weather. I set the throttle lever so that it is running about 1200 RPM when it starts.

Bill Stanley

I had it running again yesterday after I had cleaned out all possible filters etc. I found out that currently it will run on the aft tank but not on the forward which seems to be blocked. I'm going to take care of that too now and I think I'm pretty well underway of getting the feel for this tractor. Still not there as it seems that the battery is not charging but by now I have all the information I need to tackle that one too (but when?....)

Thanks again for your help and I think I will wait for the manual to arive before bothering this forum again

It is great that you are running.

"Battery not charging" is a problem I have been chasing for thirty days and is not solved. My system is 12 volts with a two brush generator. Let me know what you find wrong. The manual that I purchased did not have much trouble shooting information on electrical.

Below is the Web address that the wiring diagrams were found.
Link
167324&a=1220311

Two brush generators general information
Link

This is from the Ford section
Link

Hope this helps.

Bill Stanley

Is there a difference between petrol and gas in the context you are using the terms.

Bill Stanley