MF-35 starter relais not functioning

After switching from a David Brown to a MF-35 i'm trying to get some info. I already ordered a manual but while waiting on that I have a question on the starter as it is t he only thing not functioning right now. At this moment I have to jump the relais with a screwdriver but I would like to restore it normal operation. Anyone know wheter this is possible and cold you get me on my way?

BUT... my original problem is still there (solenoid is clicking but is not making (enough) contact) And I am now confinced I will have to replace that one. I took it off to see whether I could do some rebuild of my own but that seems impossible. Does anybody have a price range for me on this item?

If anyone is interested in a wiring diagram of my current set-up I can mail you one as soon as I get it myself.

Thanks again

I had a similiar problem on my FE35 (12v - negative ground....) I had to change the solenoid, the points in it was corroded. It clicked OK when ign. key was turned, but no current was passed through the solenoid. You can test this with a voltmeter, test between the wire from solenoid to starter and ground. It should read 12/6 v when ign. key is turned to start. My Ferguson dealer got a new one for me in one day.

Without any manual and no former experience with MF's I might haven been so stupid to overlook the starter button and the white main switch.

This white switch can be pulled out and has two stops. Does any body know what the functions are? There is an ignition key switch which seems to have two positions (OFF and contact?) and a third spring loaded position. Is this original or is this an aftermarket mod from a former owner?

Thanks again for all the info so far.

Durn, I never questioned the three positions on my ignition (uses the original MF key). The first position is sort of fake position and does not power the gas gage so I never tried to crank it in that position. The second two positions power the gas gage and it will run in either position.

Now that you brought the subject up it would be good to understand how this was designed.

Bill Stanley(NC)

Works a treat - please be careful, the neutral gear safety switch is there for a good reason. I always check the gears and make sure I have my foot on the break and the clutch when I start up.

A couple of months back I had trouble with the battery charging, you may have seen the post. I cleaned up the tractor and got to the neutral gear switch and tested it with a multimeter, it is working fine. So the conclusion I have made is that my starter switch is no longer working.

I have not taken it any further. Spares are easily available and at a reasonable price, but I thought I would have a go at the switch with CRC 2-22 (contact cleaner).

The '35 has positive ground.
There is a main power switch located to the right of the starter key, which must be pulled or nothing happens.

(but you probably already know that)

Thyge

Are you sure? My 35 12 volt gas is negative ground. The wiring diagram found here also shows a negative ground.

Bill Stanley(NC)

Both my MF35's, a Standard gas and a Perkins a3-152 diesel, are with Lucas electric system, 12v, positive ground. The wiring diagrams are not valid for the UK versions, but are US only it seems.

Thyge

Bill Stanley(NC)

Another thing - when first commenting, I overlooked that the relay was mentioned to be clicking, when the key was turned, which would indicate a functioning control circuitry, but no power from battery to starter. The main breaker switch is only on the diesels, and surely you would have no clicks with no main power - sorry.
If there is sufficient muscle in the battery, it looks like no connection through the relay contacts and starter brushes, so I would look there next.

Thyge

I also get no power to the head lights.

When I changed my relay I replaced the wire going to the starter from the starter switch - could the problem be here?

I would also like to add some weight to the front of this tractor, do you have any recommendations?

Any help will be appreciated,
Norman Moody

Below is the Web address that the wiring diagrams were found.
Link
167324&a=1220311

Bill Stanley(NC)

Furthermore I have a burning red light on the vertical steeringwheel cover (part of the dashboard). The guy I bought it from said that it mentioned my battery is low or not recharging. Yesterday I had to pull-start the tractor as the current battery was very poor(different one which was used when I first tested the tractor which was able to start it rather quickly using the screwdriver trick). Even jump cables from my car did not get it going (looked like they did not add anything to the batteries power).

Well anything you guys can think of for me to look at during the weekend will be appreciated.

To start a MF-35 the shortest transmission shifter
must be at neutral (center) position.

There is a safety neutral swith to avoid engine
started when in gear.

You probably know that but just in case

Good luck

Joe Ferguson

thanks again

Before you replace anything, follow the circuit from the starter switch to the solenoid on the starter, with a test light. It would be a shame to replace something only to learn that wasn't the problem. I've been there and done that before.