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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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135MF problem

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KY Greg

05-11-2008 16:33:28




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135MF -3cyl Perkins-gas-usually excellent running

About 2 weeks ago it had been running app 1.5 hours and it shut itself off as if it had been switched off (Actually it shut off better, as it is a 3 cyl. Perkins without the carburetor fuel shutoff thing hooked up. Usually if it is warm and you turn the key off it will hump and buck a few times before it farts and run backwards for its final dying quiver.)

I gave the wires a quick look over and didn't see anything. After about 10 minutes and 3-4 times of trying to crank it fired back up and ran perfect for another hour until I turned it off.

Yesterday I was using it and it did the same thing but "healed" itself and fired back up before the motor and bushhog stopped turning. Then it bushogged pretty rough ground with no problems for a couple more hours. It ran perfect until I shut it off.

I don't see anything loose or grounded with the wires -but may be overlooking something.

Could this be a carburetor problem or do I need to check the wiring better?

Thanks, Greg

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Jerry/MT

05-11-2008 20:50:39




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 Re: 135MF problem in reply to KY Greg, 05-11-2008 16:33:28  
Next time it shuts off on you, check for the spark. If there isn"t any or it"s weak, jump across the key switch and see if you get the spark back. Key switches go bad, get hot due to high resistance, and work for a while and cut off the ignition , etc. if that doesn"t fix it, you"ll have to spend some time checking out theprimary ignition circuit. Make sure that the main ground is "tight and bright" and that the coil wires are tight. Feel the coil. It might be a warm but it should not be hot. Do you have the correct coil? Most ignition coils are limited to ~4 amps max current or they start to overheat. This means the primary circuit resistance(from the battery ,through the key switch, through the coil, to ground) should be ~ 3 ohms total for a 12 V system.(~1.5 ohms for a 6V) Any less and you overheat the coil and you can have a problem like you are having.
Check all your connection real well especially anything crimped. Tne kind of stoppage you are describing sounds ignition related. I had a similar problem during the winter and I found some of my crimped connectors were loose. I recrimped them but I"m thinking of soldering them all in the future. Your description of a "normal" shutdown sounds like your carb may be too lean so try enriching the idle mixture and see if that changes the "normal" shut down.

Hope this helps you.

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Wesley Stephens

05-11-2008 19:42:02




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 Re: 135MF problem in reply to KY Greg, 05-11-2008 16:33:28  
some coils have internal resistors and some don't. it's usually written on the outside whether it needs an external resistor or not. I have had coils go bad on several engines and they will run fine until heat causes resistance to build up in the coil and make it stop firing. I can't remember what the specs are, but you can check the resistance across the terminals on the coil and determine if it's bad. A lot of times they will be within spec when cold and the resistance will build up as it gets hot.

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maxwell99

05-11-2008 16:54:15




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 Re: 135MF problem in reply to KY Greg, 05-11-2008 16:33:28  
I would pour a can of seafoam in fuel tank.
check points, they may be starting to wear and can film over, if you replace points, also replace condensor.

could be a loose wire under hood/dash, also check battery cables.

I had a AC, D-14 do the same thing once, a mouse had built a nest under dash and eaten insulation off one wire, from time to time the wire would bounce aganist the steering colunm and short out motor.

I had fuel system completely disassembled before I found problem.

Good luck and let us know what you find wrong with the tractor.

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MF Poor

05-11-2008 16:48:59




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 Re: 135MF problem in reply to KY Greg, 05-11-2008 16:33:28  
First guess? Coil



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KY Greg

05-11-2008 17:32:38




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 Re: 135MF problem in reply to MF Poor, 05-11-2008 16:48:59  
What is it about coils?

I had a 4 cyl Continental that had a (Chrysler) resistor between the coil and distributor. This Perkins does not have a resistor. It has been this way for about 10 years.

I still have a new coil I bought when I had the resistor problem with the Continental. It has written on the side of the coil to use a resistor on the primary.

Do I need a resistor if I change out the coil?

Is there a difference in 12 volt coils?

Thanks, Greg

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