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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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MF20 front hydraulic pump

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Matthew Songer

04-27-2008 08:57:32




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I have a MF20 Industrial with a MF32 loader where the Cessna (Eaton) pump cast iron body cracked. I cracked on the top of the unit where there are some grinding marks from the manufacture of the part.

The pump had been in service for a few years (I don't know what happened to the original pump), and I got an AGCO replacement from the dealer. It was in light duty service for about a month and the pump body cracked in the same place. Does anyone know if this is a problem with re-manufactured parts or is there something in the hydraulic system that I need to look at?

Dealing with the hydraulics is a new thing for me. When I mounted the new pump I aligned everything carefully, use a torque wrench and went by the specs. Before I spend a grand on another pump I wanted to try and find out if there is something I am overlooking.

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TEXAS TIM

04-27-2008 23:00:09




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 Re: MF20 front hydraulic pump in reply to Matthew Songer, 04-27-2008 08:57:32  
yes the relief valve if stuck closed will not provide relief for the pressure . the pump wont last long deadheaded and will split the body. the pump on mounting has to be aligned not being hit or forced to the side etc. . good luck



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135 Fan

04-27-2008 09:34:56




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 Re: MF20 front hydraulic pump in reply to Matthew Songer, 04-27-2008 08:57:32  
Is the front end wore and it is causing something to hit the pump? Too much pressure could split the pump. Is the pump somehow dead heading? I/E, the pump is pumping into a closed circuit. Make sure you have full flow through the control valve and something isn't blocking the flow. Also check that the relief valve is working properly and that the hydraulic filter isn't plugged. If there is nothing to limit how much pressure the pump puts out, it will keep building pressure until something fails. In this case the pump casting. It would probably be a good idea to talk to a dealer or good hydraulic shop. One other thing to check is that the pump shaft doesn't have force pushing it into the pump. I don't know how the pump is mounted. I think some front pumps have a spline type coupling and others have a flexible coupling. Hope this helps. Dave

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Matthew Songer

04-27-2008 09:54:28




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 Re: MF20 front hydraulic pump in reply to 135 Fan, 04-27-2008 09:34:56  
So do you think that I should look into the main relief valve? The loader works fine, but I wondered if the main valve was not letting the pressure back into the reservoir that could be the problem. I changed the filter when I pulled the old pump.

A bit of history: we were using the tractor to transport supplies and tools to the pump house to pull and replace the pump for our fishing ponds. At the end of the day, when we got ready to leave, the wheels spun in leaves and sand, and the tractor slid off the roadway at the pump house. We unloaded the bucket and I was using the loader to push the tractor back onto the road and the hydraulics just stopped responding. I unbolted the bucket, got the unit back to the shop and tested the flow from the pump. Low flow (>4 gpm). SO I pulled the pump and found that the key had rolled in the shaft. Put in a new key, was priming the pump at low RPM and the casting broke. Then I put on the new pump and the same thing happened after being in service for a few weeks.

The front end seems to be okay.

This has been a one owner tractor and only works an hour or two a day during the summer except on mowing days, then it might put in 8 hours pulling a finish mower. Flat ground and gravel roadways.

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135 Fan

04-28-2008 09:03:14




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 Re: MF20 front hydraulic pump in reply to Matthew Songer, 04-27-2008 09:54:28  
It sounds like something is blocking flow or the relief valve is stuck. I think you might need to have a shop look at it. If the flow was restricted would account for the low flow rate. You should be getting around 17 GPM or more at high rpms. Dave



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Matthew Songer

04-28-2008 18:39:10




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 Re: MF20 front hydraulic pump in reply to 135 Fan, 04-28-2008 09:03:14  
The low flow was when the key had spun in the shaft. When I pulled the pump, the key was in the coupler and ground concave against the shaft of the pump. I thought that the problem was simply that the key had spun out of the groove for some reason. I replaced the key with a new one and the pump only lasted a few minutes before cracking.

When I pulled the pump to replace it with the new one I noticed that the new key had some twist to it. I'm anxious to see if the key that came with the replacement pump has some twist or shear to it.

I'm beginning to think that reason that the key spun and ground was in response to a blockage or failure in the main valve and that instead of cracking the pump, the key failed.

I'd like to take it to the shop, but last time there was a problem with the hydraulics, they kept it for over two months, charged $2500, and when it came back, the bolts for the hood and radiator shroud were missing so that the sheet metal was banging against the pump every time you hit a bump.

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