MF35 difficult shifting

It is much easier now to disengage the PTO, and I had a little grinding in second and third gears which is gone now.

I am still having a problem however shifting into first and reverse from neutral. I have to shift to third and then quickly up and over into reverse. After in reverse, I can easily shift back and forth between first and reverse. This happens whether or not the engine is running.

Looks like the next step is to pull the trans cover to take a look at the shift forks and shifter rod itself. On the 8N, this is easy to do, but on the 35 it looks like the dash and entire steering column have to come off. Are there any tricks to this? It looks straight-forward, but I would like to avoid any surprises.

I already have a trans cover gasket (figured I would have to do this sooner or later), but does anyone know of any likely culprits inside the gearbox? I've searched extensively through the archives, but I haven't found this problem mentioned.

Thanks,
Shawn

Yes, I've tried this, but I've never once been able to shift from neutral to either first or reverse at any clutch pedal position, engine running or not. I would think if the clutch is dragging I would be grinding gears going into second and third (which was the case before I adjusted the clutch). It just feels like the shift lever won't go far enough toward the left to engage, so I wondered if maybe the bottom of the shift lever is worn or bent. Can this be removed without pulling the cover?

However, I did notice while brush hogging that when I pressed the clutch pedal all the way down with the blades still spinning that it would grind shifting into second or third. After the blades/PTO coasted to a stop, the grinding went away. Not sure if this is normal, but I thought I would mention it.

I bought a CD-based shop manual, but unfortunately the gearbox pictures are terrible and there is no exploded drawing.

Thanks,
Shawn

There are a couple of other possibilities that have caught us in the past.

First - the center of the traction clutch deformed by someone pulling the tractor together with bolts after a split, without properly engaging the splines. On ours, the center was pushed forward just enough to rub slightly on the flywheel - just enough contact to keep the plate spinning so it would grind. You could just barely see the rub mark on the plate hub. Took three splits to find that @#ZZ@#$X.

That action was independent of the PTO clutch behaviour.

The second possibility - runout in the clutch plate. On the previous mess, we finally replaced the plate with a rebuilt. Back together - properly this time, under my fussy supervision - and the sucker still wouldn't release properly. Fourth split. Warped plate- 1/8" wobble.....

That's called EXPERIENCE.....

There is a large "yoke" with a square-headed set screw in the top (this is the first thing you see when removing the oil plug). This yoke is engaged by the end of the shifter.

When shifting from third to reverse, the yoke is repositioned slightly downward and left. In this position, I can shift easily between reverse and first. Immediately as I move the shifter toward neutral, this yoke repositions itself slightly upward and to the right. In this position, I can still shift easily between second and third, but not to reverse or first. I have to repeat the movement from third to reverse for the yoke to again be repositioned slightly downward and left.

Unless you know of anything else to check, the next step will be to remove the cover to get a better look inside the gearbox. Are there any shortcuts or tricks for this? It appears I have to remove the dash, which involves disconnecting all the wiring, cables, and throttle lever. Doesn't look like the steering wheel needs to be removed, since I think everything will come off together.

Thanks,
Shawn