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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum

MF35 clutch adjustment

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Shawn Church

04-10-2008 09:07:00

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I posted a few days ago about difficult shifting into first and reverse. My priority was to first get fluids and filters changed, but last night I removed the bottom inspection plate to have a look at the clutch. There is a little oil seepage from the transmission, but I was glad to see the clutch assembly looks clean and dry.

I know the dual-stage clutch adjustment has been discussed before, but it would be nice to have some pictures. I was able to see short bolts with lock nuts as described, but the heads of these bolts contact the throwout bearing. I didn't have a helper handy to push the clutch pedal, but I was able to move it by hand to see the throwout bearing contact the bolts. I measured this free travel at the pedal, and it's at least 1.25 inches which I know is too much.

Before I start messing with anything though, could someone please explain where to start adjusting? I know the clutch arm on the outside of the bell housing can be adjusted to help with the free travel, but it looks like this could also be done internally with these bolts.

I assume there are similar bolts for adjusting the PTO clutch, but I'm not sure I spotted them. If someone could go through whole clutch adjustment process, it would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Shawn

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Shawn Church

04-11-2008 09:24:09

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

Thanks everyone for the information and picture. I was able to spend some time on it last night, and everything is now adjusted properly. I have 1/2 inch or less of free play, and I feel the second stage clutch at around 1/3 to 1/2 down.

It is much easier now to disengage the PTO, and I had a little grinding in second and third gears which is gone now. This however didn't help with the shifting problem into first and reverse. I still can't shift from neutral into either first or reverse. I have to shift to third and then quickly up and over into reverse. After in reverse, I can easily shift back and forth between first and reverse. This happens whether or not the engine is running.

Looks like the next step is to pull the trans cover to take a look at the shift forks and shifter rod itself. On the 8N, this is easy to do, but on the 35 it looks like the dash and entire steering column have to come off. Are there any tricks to this? It looks straight-forward, but I would like to avoid any surprises.

I already have a trans cover gasket (figured I would have to do this sooner or later), but does anyone know of any likely culprits inside the gearbox? I've searched extensively through the archives, but I haven't found this problem mentioned.

Thanks,
Shawn

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Frema

04-11-2008 00:24:01

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

Hey Shawn
You already got the photo from Don G, and I fancy it`s straightforward to work by.
Good luck.
Frema Dk.

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Don_G

04-10-2008 14:44:24

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

Here's the picture that Big Dean sent to me.

Don

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DavidP, South Wales

04-10-2008 13:33:04

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

Hello Shawn,
I don't have any photos to post but the adjustment is quite straight forward. You have removed the plate and have an idea of what the unit looks like. First of all you will need to adjust the PTO plate clearance. Using a flashlight turn the flywheel with a screwdriver or similar. You will see the coil springs. At 3 equal points around the unit and between the springs you will see the adjusting bolts. You will need two 1/2 inch AF open-ended spanners. Ensure that the jaws are in good condition. It is a bit tricky but you need to slacken the locknut on each bolt just enough to be able to adjust the bolt. The clearance is approximately .080 inch. An approximate guide is to grind the teeth off two hand hacksaw blades. Hold them together and that is the approx thickness. The actual thickness is not so important as the fact that the three are adjusted the same. Holding the locknut adjust until you can just insert the gauge. Nip the nut up after. Once you have the three done you need to adjust the pedal clearance. You do not touch the bolts on the release arms. The amount of wear on these bolts will give you an idea of how much wear is present in the unit. If the domes are largely present, all well and good. If the domes are worn away, that is not a good sign.
Adjust the pedal so that you have a free travel of approx 3/8 inch (10mm) between the pedal and the point where it makes contact under the footbar. Check the operation of the clutch. You should have a clearly defined second stage and forward motion should stop before you reach the second stage. Check the PTO. The shaft without load should stop approx one inch (25mm) before you reach the end of travel. If you have any difficulty engaging the PTO it may be necessary to reduce the gap slightly. Each unit is different so no exact adjustment figure can be given. Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales

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Shawn Church

04-10-2008 13:56:57

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to DavidP, South Wales, 04-10-2008 13:33:04

Thanks David, I appreciate you clearing up the release bearing issue. Hopefully this will resolve the shifting problem I am having (can't shift to reverse or first from neutral, but rather must shift quickly from third directly to reverse). This problem exists whether the engine is running or not, so it may be an internal transmission problem, but I know the clutch needs to be adjusted regardless.

I hope this weekend to be able to get this done, and I'll do my best to take some pictures along the way. It sounds like the adjustment is no big deal, but this seems to be a common maintenance issue where pictures might help.

Thanks again,
Shawn

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Frema

04-10-2008 12:22:03

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

Hello Shawn
My 135 U.K has had a similar problem and I contacted Big Dean and he sent me a photo with all the relevant text etc. I don`t know how to attach this photo, but gimme your e-mail, and I`ll be back
Cheers
Frema Dk.

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Shawn Church

04-10-2008 12:32:39

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Frema, 04-10-2008 12:22:03

Frema, my email is [email protected]. I appreciate you sending whatever you have.

Thanks,
Shawn

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supergrumpy

04-10-2008 12:15:52

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to Shawn Church, 04-10-2008 09:07:00

search thru the archives here, this has been covered well and there are some great pictures also

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Shawn Church

04-10-2008 13:08:48

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Re: MF35 clutch adjustment in reply to supergrumpy, 04-10-2008 12:15:52

I think I've read all of the archived responses on this, and I think I have a pretty clear idea on the PTO clutch adjustment procedures. My question was when to adjust the external clutch arm (I think that is normally adjusted before the internal adjustments). Also, I don't remember finding any pictures (there are a few broken links though), and unless someone is using different terminology, I don't remember anyone mentioning the bolts which contact the throwout bearing. I've found two pictures on another web site (vintagetractorengineer.com), and there are many offers from Big Dean to email pictures, but I don't think any of these have made it to the forum (please correct me if I'm wrong).

Thanks,
Shawn

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