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Z134 Sleeves

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Evan MacDonald

11-27-2000 12:52:07




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How hard is installing the sleeves in a Z134? My TO 35 burns ~2 quarts of oil to 1 gallon of gas, so it's time to re-build. Is there any technique I should use to install the sleeves? Also, what should I look for when I take it apart? Evan MacDonald
55 TO 35 Deluxe
S/N 140963
Wagner WF3 Loader




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PaulCtOH

12-02-2000 06:33:34




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 Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Evan MacDonald, 11-27-2000 12:52:07  
Will an F140A engine fit where a Z134 engine is used? I have an F140A engine. Will it fit right into a TO 35 tractor? Thank you, Paul



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case931

11-29-2000 07:53:17




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 Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Evan MacDonald, 11-27-2000 12:52:07  
I just got thru re-buliding mine. Knocked them out with a block of wood and a hammmer - after my machinist friend told me he had done hundreds that way. Didn't like the sound of that at all, but gave them one good whack and they moved. Decided that was easier than spending half a day making a puller. Be advised that he told me he has never seen a Z134 that didn't have a cracked block - in the web between the cylinders both at top and bottom. Mine was exactly that way. Worried the heck out of me - he said to use a can of K&W block seal after it was assembled and it would not leak. He was right.

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B.C.

11-28-2000 06:24:01




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 Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Evan MacDonald, 11-27-2000 12:52:07  
I made a simple puller like what the I&T manual described. It was a stepped disc that went into the bottom of the sleeve. A length of 1/2 inch redi rod went through the center and up to a cross bar supported across and above the top of the sleeve. Pulled them out nice as you please.

I had initially tried bumping them out with a hammer and 2x4 whacking against the bottom of the sleeve but soon gave that up. Others have said it works, and good for them.

When the new sleeves go in, there are seals that go into the grooves in the bottom of the sleeve. The I&T manual should say something about lubing them slightly and being careful not to nick them when inserting them. The Z134 is a wet sleeve engine and antifreeze should stay where it belongs, not leak down into the oil pan.

If you take the time to make or borrow the proper tools it's pretty straightforward.

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Evan MacDonald

11-28-2000 12:10:33




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 Re: Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to B.C., 11-28-2000 06:24:01  
I'll have to get my manual back from my neighbor, it's not an I&T though. I take it that this stepped disk is the same size as the sleeve on the bottom, and the top of the disk fits inside the sleeve, and the top of the puller goes up against the top of the head, has clearance for the sleeve to come out of the block, and they are tied together with a piece of threaded rod, and you tighten the nut on the top down, pulling the sleeve. Thanks
Evan MacDonald

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B.C.

11-29-2000 05:32:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Evan MacDonald, 11-28-2000 12:10:33  
Yup that's about the size of it. The largest dia of the disc is a tad smaller than the od of the sleeve. In that manner it will pull right on up.

The smaller step keeps the disc centered in the sleeve by fitting in the id of the sleeve.

Most anybody with a metal lathe can buzz that out for you in a short while. I got mine made from steel about an inch thick, but aluminum would probably work too, at least at that thickness.

If you wish, the cross bar on the top which the redi rod goes through can later be used to (gently) seat the new sleeve in the block. It'll need to be long enough to accomodate a couple holes for head bolts or studs. But that's kind of gilding the lily. If the sleeve counterbore is nice and clean and the seals are appropriately lubed the new sleeves should go on in with little problem.

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Rob J

11-30-2000 19:38:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to B.C., 11-29-2000 05:32:13  
Hi I'm new here, My brother-n-law and I are doing an in frame on his MF 1080. I suggested making a puller but he wanted to chip them out with a screw driver. They had been there for 30 years. These are a dry sleeve. We tried popping them up from the bottom with no luck. With this puller you made work with an in frame (crank in the way)? If it's thin enough then it may work. Of course we may not need it for another 30 years. I just happen to enjoy making the correct tool....that is if a 2x4 doesn't work.

Rob

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Jack in NB

12-01-2000 13:20:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Rob J, 11-30-2000 19:38:30  
Rob -

Those dry sleeves are set firmly. We loosen them with a half-dozen VERY LIGHT passes bottom to top with a welding rod. Shrinks them slightly.

VERY LIGHT and fast - the sleeves are less than 1/32 thick; if you burn through you've got a real mess! (Sleeve welded in place, burnt block, engine out, re-bore and resleeve..... Ask me how I know.....)

Start about 1" from the bottom, to leave undisturbed sleeve wall for the puller adaptor plate.

Protect your crank from splatter!

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B.C.

12-01-2000 06:07:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Z134 Sleeves in reply to Rob J, 11-30-2000 19:38:30  
It might clear, if the throw is rotated out of the way. You'd have to reach up to thread on a nut with the pulling rod dropped down through it but that shouldn't be too bad.

If you have a lathe you could make one up, or just jigsaw a dummy one out of wood and see if it would fit above the crank.

The basic idea is pretty simple, the od of the thing is a bit smaller than the od of the sleeve. There's a step machined around the outside so that it centers in the sleeve.

Lots of people seem to have the old touch with the all purpose 2x4 and hammer. I just was a lot more comfortable pulling sleeve with a puller. Those seals seemed to have a good bit of drag to them, and it wasn't the kind of deal you could whap once and have it come out.

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