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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine

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richardp3

12-08-2007 10:53:16




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I would like to try and replace my oil pan gasket, but it looks like I have to split the tractor to do this. The oil pan appears to be heavy cast iron and integral to the tractors frame. It's a MF 135 s/n 9A 118245, engine s/n 152UA 248011D. Can anyone tell me which perkins deisel this is and if I have to split the tractor to change the oil pan gasket?




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TomTex

12-09-2007 05:57:31




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to richardp3, 12-08-2007 10:53:16  
MFPoor is right. If you are going to keep this tractor, get all 3 real MF manuals: Operator Manual, Repair Manual, and Parts Manual. If you have already ordered an IT manual use it for door stop. Tom



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MF Poor

12-09-2007 07:44:18




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to TomTex, 12-09-2007 05:57:31  
I've got a few I&T manuals laying around. They're great for using to protect a REAL manual from getting oil and dirt on the cover ;) I&T manuals are supposedly copied info from OEM manuals. But after a few bad experiences, I've found several misprints of key info, along with a lot of important facts left out. They are just too brief and incomplete on top of some misleading info.

A typical owners manual, service manual and parts manual from Massey Ferguson as an example makes a stack 3" thick. The I&T manual is 1/4". No way they can cover all the facts in 1/12th the volume

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Ianj

12-08-2007 13:30:10




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to richardp3, 12-08-2007 10:53:16  
I guess Holz Equipment Service sell I&T manuals!



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Holz Equipment Service

12-08-2007 16:24:17




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Ianj, 12-08-2007 13:30:10  
No! Holz Equipment Service does not sell IT Service Manuals, however we have used them for over twenty years. I have found them to be as good as most manuals offered by the manufacturer of the tractor. I have compared them to most manufacturer's, & have found them easier to use,a lot cheaper, and in most cases written word for word the same. I have found that if you need more then an IT manual for reference to complete the repair, you would be better off letting someone else do it for you.

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Aaron Ford

12-10-2007 05:27:17




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Holz Equipment Service, 12-08-2007 16:24:17  
Ever tried to put a rocker shaft in a MF65 with the IT manual? If ya went by the instructions, you put it in backward. I currently have 2 ITs 1 Massey Repair, 1 Massey Owners Manual, and 1 parts manual. You just have to watch the IT manuals accuracy.

Just my $0.02

Aaron



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richardp3

12-08-2007 19:57:21




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Holz Equipment Service, 12-08-2007 16:24:17  
My only tractors before the MF135 have been Kubota's... I've never needed a service manual before ;~)



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Holz Equipment Service

12-08-2007 11:45:58




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to richardp3, 12-08-2007 10:53:16  
The engine is a Perkins 152. The front axle will have to be removed before removing the oil pan. However if you have oil leaking from the weep-hole; it is likely coming from either the rear main seal, or the transmission input shaft seal, which requires removal of the engine also. Whichever it is, the repair should not be attempted before investing in a good service manual. If everyone would spend the few dollars needed to purchase an IT manual for their model of tractor, there would not be as many this type of questions posted.

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DavidP, South Wales

12-08-2007 13:46:17




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Holz Equipment Service, 12-08-2007 11:45:58  
If you have a swept axle 135 the sump can be removed without removing the front axle. If you have a straight axle you cannot due to the stud screwed through the axle casting and into the block. By UK history yours at 1971 is likely to be a straight axle..
If the oil that is leaking is black in colour then it is from either the rear crank seal or sump (oil pan). Either way its quite a lot of work. When you fit the new seals to the sump make absolutely sure that the ends of the cork are in contact with the gasket on the block face and that every part of the cork is seated in the groove correctly. A small flat screw driver is the best tool for this. Add some jointing cement around the area at the end of the corks as a precaution. Ensure that the sump is fitted squarely.
If you need any more help as far as splitting the tractor is concerned please come back.
DavidP, South Wales

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MF Poor

12-08-2007 13:52:17




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to DavidP, South Wales, 12-08-2007 13:46:17  
US 135's had the swept axle thru the end of production.



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MF Poor

12-08-2007 12:05:48




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Holz Equipment Service, 12-08-2007 11:45:58  
And about I&T Manuals. They're about as useful as a sharp stick in the eye. Misinformation abounds. Get MF/AGCO owners manual, service manual and parts manual.



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MF Poor

12-08-2007 12:03:36




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to Holz Equipment Service, 12-08-2007 11:45:58  
Perkins diesels have a bad habit of rear pan gaskets leaking. About 90% of the time oil leaking from the weep hole is the pan gasket and not rear main or tranny. The difference in oil will tell if it's engine or tranny anyway. I've fixed dozens of leaky dripping Masseys with a simple pan gasket change.



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MF Poor

12-08-2007 11:38:20




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 Re: 1971 MF 135 oil leaking out weep hole at rear of engine in reply to richardp3, 12-08-2007 10:53:16  
No, you don't have to splitthe tractor to change oil pan gaskets.

Make a couple wooden wedges to drive between the front axle and the bolster to stabilize the front end. Put a jack under the transmission to support the rear end. Unbolt the hood assembly from the grill, but leave it in place. If you don't the hood becomes the next strongest "structural member" once the oil pan is removed.

Remove oil pan, clean up, re-apply gaskets and reassemble. Make certain you have the oil pan supported (with a floor jack) when you unbolt it. That sucker is HEAVY.

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