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Try to find out what the root cause of your problem is before you relace anything. In 85% of the "no starts", the problem is in the primary ignition circuit and 10% of the time it"s caused by inadequate fuel delivery. Turn on the ignition, pull the center wire out of the didtributor cao and hold it near a good ground. Try a start. You should see a FAT, BLUISH WHITE SPARK FROM THE COIL OUTPUT LEAD. If you don"t you most likely have a problem with the primary ignition circuit. The points may be corroded, burned, or not set correctly, the wire from the battery through the key switch to the coil and then to the distributor may be shorted or a connection loose or corroded. The key switch itself could be bad. Pace a jumper from the battery to the coil terminal coming from the key switch and see if you get a spark. If you do, then the circuit from the battery through the key switch to the coil is your problem. You didn"t say what voltage your electrical system was. Usually a coil with an external resistor is used on a 6V system converted to 12V though some new, so called "12 V coils" require a resistor on a 12 V system. In my opinion, the correct 12V coil is the NAPA IC-14SB(~$15)and it has the correct resistance built in. If you do have the requisite, FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK then check to make sure that you have adequate fuel flow to the carb. I believe you have a Marvel Schebler carb and ther will be a plug at the bottom of it. Open the fuel valve at the tank and then remove the plug on the bottom of the carb, holding a container under it to catch the $3+/gallon fuel. The fuel should gush out like a cow peein" on a flat rock. If it doesn"t then there is an obstruction in the fuel livery system or within the float valve on the carb. Check the "secret filter" in the carb inlet elbow, and the filter in thesediment bowl/tank valve assembly. Make sure the fuel line is not kinked.
If these systems check out, then you may have a timing problem. get back to the forum and we"ll walk you through that check.
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