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If it has a volt meter wired where the ammeter used to be, it won't start because the volt meter won't pass enough current to pull in the starter solenoid. The starter circuit is simple, just the battery, the starter solenoid, the starter, the starter switch, and the transmission interlock switch plus a few wires. Any part in there can be bad from wires to starter. And connection can be corroded and prevent starting. The transmission hi/lo side has to be in neutral and the wires to that switch as well as that switch up on top the transmission have to be in good shape. There is no magic way to trace broken circuits from afar, there is a need for all parts of a circuit to be good for the circuit to work. And its a fundamental law of electric circuits that the current has to flow in all parts to flow in any. So all you can do is start with a test light or volt meter and follow the voltage from the battery positive terminal tracing the circuit to the starter solenoid and see where you have voltage and where you don't. I prefer a 50 watt 12 volt lamp for this test rather than a voltmeter. It takes so little current to run a voltmeter that a crappy corroded connection can show full voltage, but the connection won't supply a load. That 12 volt 50 watt lamp (Wallyworld RV section) draws 4 amps and tests bad connections much more thoroughly. And connections in the ground side are absolutely just as critical to the circuit working as connections on the hot side. Gerald J.
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