MF 35 hydraulic pipe

MF provided a remote valve to provide a remote hydraulic outlet. The valve replaces the hydraulic adapter beneath the seat held on by two bolts.

MF remote valves are not readily available but are sometimes available used from salvage yards or from MF dealers.

Dean

If you lock the lift arms in the low position (there are bars that connect the ends of the three-point drawbar to the top link attach point that do this) then the position control lever will provide single-acting flow from either of the pipe plugs on the front left and right sides of the cover casting (under the front of the seat).

The lower the lift arms are, the more flow is delivered to the remote application. As the arms approach the upper position, the ferguson system progressively decreases pump delivery.

Apparently some of the earlier loaders were operated this way.

If you have a good set of stay bars do not try to use these to hold the drawbar down. Stay bars are designed to fix the three point drawbar at a fixed height for towing with the position control lever fully down.

Stay bars are not designed to hold the drawbar down against the hydraulic pressure of the lift and will be damaged or destroyed if you attempt this.

That said: The alternative method of providing remote hydraulic pressure by chaining the drawbar down is tried and proven, albeit inconvenient.

Dean

They"re called stay bars in the parts book, used to convert the 3-point drawbar to a fixed height drawbar.

They look like the strap type sway bars, about 3/8 x 2, with a 7/8 hole on the bottom and 3/4 at the top. About 2" at each end bent to suit the angles needed. The lower ends fit on the ends of the 3-point drawbar inside or outside of the sway bar straps. The top ends fit on the top link pin.

The factory ones are adjustable, in two pieces and slots like a generator adjusting bracket, and a couple of 3/8 bolts to clamp them together. If you need an adjustable setup you can do the same thing with bolts spaced about 10" apart and holes drilled as needed.

The factory ones have about 5/8" at the top folded 90 degrees to the outside; the Oliver ones were bent to the center - to keep the bars from flopping on the top pin.

The pins on some 3-point drawbars are too short to take both sway bars and stay bars. The work-around: thin the lower ends of the stay bars and the outer ends of the sway bars with a grinder (minimum safe thickness about 3/16"), possibly take a bit off the flat side of the snap pins.

This weakens both the sway bars and the snap pins. This is not critical in this situation, but they could fail in normal use for other applications. A new set of each is a lot cheaper than the remote valve!

They're called stay bars in the parts book, used to convert the 3-point drawbar to a fixed height drawbar.

They look like the strap type sway bars, about 3/8 x 2, with a 7/8 hole on the bottom and 3/4 at the top. About 2" at each end bent to suit the angles needed. The lower ends fit on the ends of the 3-point drawbar inside or outside of the sway bar straps. The top ends fit on the top link pin.

The factory ones are adjustable, in two pieces and slots like a generator adjusting bracket, and a couple of 3/8 bolts to clamp them together. If you need an adjustable setup you can do the same thing with bolts spaced about 10" apart and holes drilled as needed.

The factory ones have about 5/8" at the top folded 90 degrees to the outside; the Oliver ones were bent to the center - to keep the bars from flopping on the top pin.

The pins on some 3-point drawbars are too short to take both sway bars and stay bars. The work-around: thin the lower ends of the stay bars and the outer ends of the sway bars with a grinder (minimum safe thickness about 3/16"), possibly take a bit off the flat side of the snap pins.

This weakens both the sway bars and the snap pins. This is not critical in this situation, but they could fail in normal use for other applications. A new set of each is a lot cheaper than the remote valve!