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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Tractor I.D. help

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Jon Haldeman

11-08-2006 16:58:39




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Hi all,
I just bought (what I was told is a MF-20)but I'm not sure.
I think it is an industrial model.
I just want to make sure before I buy manuals
From what I've read, the 20 Ind. came with a 3 cylinder 152. Mine has a 4 cylinder Diesel
4 injectors coming in from the side.
It has Power Steering, an MF-34 loader, shuttle shift
3 speed high and low, pto
The serial # is 9A T39094
There are numbers stamped 1860-190-MI

Any help would be appreciated

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richard in nz

11-10-2006 19:21:09




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-08-2006 16:58:39  
Just seen help identify. It is the diff lock lever.



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135 Fan

11-08-2006 23:10:03




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-08-2006 16:58:39  
It almost has to be an MF 30 with a AD4 203 direct injection Perkins. This tractor would also be equipped with the MF 34 loader. It would be a 1970 to 1976. Your serial number doesn't match. Is it of the loader? Big Deans site has serial numbers but yours is different. I've ran an MF 30 with a gas engine. Very good loader. It has selective self levelling when you pull the lift all the way back when lifting. It's the industrial version of a 165. Hope this helps. Dave

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Jon Haldeman

11-09-2006 06:29:40




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-08-2006 23:10:03  
Yes I think the loader has a self leveling feature
The connecting cable is missing so I have to replace it



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135 Fan

11-09-2006 19:34:27




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-09-2006 06:29:40  
The self levelling is in the loader lift valve. All the cable does is attach to a pointer on the corner of the loader boom to tell you when the bucket is level. It works great. Dave



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135 Fan

11-08-2006 23:19:45




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-08-2006 23:10:03  
It is an MF 30. That's the only 4 cylinder diesel that used the MF 34 loader with a 9A prefix. Could the T in the serial # be a 2? It might make more sense. Dave



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smokey2

11-08-2006 17:19:55




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-08-2006 16:58:39  
Has it a Perkins motor?
Are the injectors at 90 or 80 degrees to the motor?
If it is an industrial give Big Dean a yell.



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Jon Haldeman

11-08-2006 17:49:39




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to smokey2, 11-08-2006 17:19:55  
Smokey
The injectors are 90 degree
My uneducated guess would be that it is an
AD4.
How can I tell if it is a Perkins?
The seller told me it is a 1975
Thanks



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smokey2

11-08-2006 21:24:27




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-08-2006 17:49:39  
If it is a Perkins and the injectors are at 90 then it is an A4 as the direct injection motors are set at 80 degrees. A 4 cylinder Perkins means it is something like an MF65. My knowledge of industrials is a bit limited so give Big Dean a visit.



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Jon Haldeman

11-09-2006 07:39:37




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to smokey2, 11-08-2006 21:24:27  
I'll try to contact Dean. Maybe he can help me narrow it down.
YT shows three different sevice manuals available.
A MF 30, MF 30B and MF 30E
I'd like to get the one that is closest to what I need.



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Jon Haldeman

11-09-2006 06:19:42




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to smokey2, 11-08-2006 21:24:27  
Thanks for the replies
I went out and looked at it again (This time in daylight) and the injectors are angled. They are not 90 degrees as I thought they were (from a quick look in bad lighting.) So I guess I have a direct inject.

The "T" in the serial # may be an "I" because that is exactly what it looks like. An "I" with the bottom part missing or stamped so lightly that I can"t see it.

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Jon Haldeman

11-09-2006 15:54:43




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-09-2006 06:19:42  
Thanks for the help guys
Dean confirmed that it probably is a 1972 MF 30
Not a 1975 MF 20 like I was told.

As far as the "I" or "T" in the serial #, Dean said that
that should have been a "1" and was a common mistake
during stamping the plate.
Just thought I would mention that in case someone else has the same problem
Cant wait to get my service manual
I can't figure out how that shift lever that engages the second drive wheel works
Mine looks like it was never used. There is still paint on the rubber boot on the double headed retainer bolt (I have no idea what it is actually called) I think that lever has to slide out towards the wheel although I can't get it to move. There are other parts that look like they hinge some how.
Like anything its probably real simple once you know the secret

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135 Fan

11-09-2006 19:39:44




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-09-2006 15:54:43  
Are you talking about the differential lock on the right side? It should pull back to engage the diff. lock. It's possible it was never needed or used. Dave



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Jon Haldeman

11-10-2006 08:58:11




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-09-2006 19:39:44  
Dave,
Yea, It's a log thin handled lever that has a pin
at the bottom of the lever that sits in a "C" shaped
retaining bracket. That bracket looks like it is hinged in the front. It looks like you have to push the lever forward to flip that "C" shaped bracket.
The pin on my lever looks like a replacement that someone welded on. Maybe they had trouble with it too and snapped it. Judging by the thickness of the lever and pin it doesn't look like much force should be required to lock the diff.
As any one else had a problem?
Do you need to roll the tractor to get it to mesh?
Thanks

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135 Fan

11-10-2006 15:13:05




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-10-2006 08:58:11  
That's on the right side of the seat? It doesn't sound like the diff. lock. The one I drove had a pretty beavy lever [3/4 inch] and was spring loaded to stay in neutral. No lock mechanism. If it's on the left someone could have made a lock mechanism for the 3 Pt.. The only other possibility I can think of is some sort of hydraulic control. Dave



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Jon Haldeman

11-10-2006 18:49:50




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-10-2006 15:13:05  
135 Fan,
The lever is on the right side if you are sitting in the seat. I posted a few pictures in the Help Identify photo section
Thanks for your help



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fp

11-10-2006 20:55:01




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-10-2006 18:49:50  
The part in your picture is the actuator for the diff-lock. It is supposed to rotate counter-clockwise to engage the lock. The flat part on the back of it that fits into the double-headed bolt(this is actually the diff-lock pin)pulls the pin outward when the part is rotated. The mounting pin on yours is frozen where it goes into the mounting hole on the tractor.

If you look at the part again, you will notice that on the outside of it there is part of a hole formed into it. It is broken here as this is where the actuating pedal and mounting shaft attach to it. Someone stomped on the pedal to try to move the part. When they did, it broke it because it is set up.

If, and when, you replace it, you will have to remove the mounting pin. Make certain the pin moves freely where it mounts into the tractor when re-assembling it.

This is the same mechanism used on the 165 and 175 ag tractors. Knowing this should make locating used replacement parts easier.

I hope this information is helpful!

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Jon Haldeman

11-11-2006 08:05:56




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to fp, 11-10-2006 20:55:01  
Thanks for your help!
After looking at the pictures last night and seeing the rubber boot on the double headed locking bolt,
I figured that by moving the lever backward instead of forward it would rotate that bracket towards the wheel instead of towards the seat, pulling the bolt out to lock the diff. I see that hole in the bracket and thought that maybe a pin goes in there.
SO if I understand you, there is a pin that goes in that hole which attaches to a foot pedal. It would seem then that locking the diff is a two part process. Pulling the lever back towards the axle and flipping that bracket further with a foot pedal? Does this foot pedal then hold the locking bolt out into position?

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135 Fan

11-11-2006 10:19:58




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-11-2006 08:05:56  
It sounds like someone else knows how it works. The MF 30 I used didn't engage with a foot pedal. It had a lever you pull back. It had a cab also. Maybe yours was changed to foot operation or both were available? Dave



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Jon Haldeman

11-11-2006 15:22:54




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-11-2006 10:19:58  
Dave,
It used to have a canopy and it does have a long
lever. At the base of the handle there is a pin that sits in a "C" shaped retainer bracket You can see it if you look at the pictures.
That bracket has a piece of flat stock that engages the double headed bolt that locks the diff. So to lock the diff you push the lever forward which rotates that bracket up and towards the seat which pushes the bolt in and locks the diff? Do I have it right? My bracket is stuck and wont rotate up. It moves a little when I tap it with a hammer so I put some penetrating oil on it and will let it sit over night. If it still wont move I"ll put some heat on it.

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135 Fan

11-11-2006 17:42:55




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-11-2006 15:22:54  
The pictures are pretty small but the one I used may have pushed forward. It was over 20 years ago I ran it. The cab covers everything. It shouldn't have a mechanism to lock it in. If the differential is locked, you can't turn. Hopefully the penetrating oil will free it up. I don't think I would want to use heat unless it was no wear near any seals or anything that would get damaged by heating it. The diff lock isn't needed very often. Dave

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Jon Haldeman

11-11-2006 19:26:36




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-11-2006 17:42:55  
Fan,
Yea they only time I may need it is pulling a wagon load of firewood up from the bottom of the property thru an old pasture that has a few springs in it.
If I cant get the diff to lock I'll just switch the tires around so the good rubber is on the drive wheel.



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135 Fan

11-11-2006 21:14:08




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to Jon Haldeman, 11-11-2006 19:26:36  
You don't have a one wheel drive tractor. Changing tires around won't do anything. A tractor differential works the same way as a car. The only time differential lock helps is if one wheel is slipping on either side. You can't have the diff. locked if you want to be able to turn the tractor. It would push straight ahead even with the steering wheel cranked all the way. Dave



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fp

11-30-2006 20:03:20




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 Re: Tractor I.D. help in reply to 135 Fan, 11-11-2006 21:14:08  
Jon, I've looked at your pictures and at a parts book. It looks like the hand lever is there that is used to engage the differential lock. This is done by pulling back on the hand lever. However, I think the part of the hand lever that engages into to actuation lever has been broken off and replaced with a piece of stock rod. This piece originally had a round ball on the end of it that engaged into the actuation lever. Probably broke off when someone tried to force it because the actuation lever is set up.

This all being said, it will probably still work if you can get the actuation lever loosened up. The hand lever will just have more free travel before moving the actuation lever than it originally had. I hope this information is helpful.

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