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M H 30 Brakes

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Chuck

08-14-2000 10:48:43




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Does anyone know how to repair the brakes on a MH model 30 ?, I haven't a clue where to start. Thanks




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abe bunker

08-31-2000 14:55:48




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 Re: M H 30 Brakes in reply to Chuck, 08-14-2000 10:48:43  
I sent this reply yesterday but it didn't get
posted for some reason!! There are 2 types of brakes, the older has the
band type, and my mh30-1951 has the shoe type.
To prep the tractor, remove the tire. This will
allow for working at a slight angle. Not much of
a hassle really. (except when you remove some skin from your knuckles !). If you would rather work face on, remove the wheel (mh30 - standard, not familiar with row cropper
setup) which calls for 3/4 inch heavy duty puller. Wheel weighs about as much as sack of cement. MF should have at least the pads with rivets.
But if you can get the whole shoe, thats better. If you can only get the pads, drill out the
old pad rivets from the shoe. Get a brake rivet
punch and put the pads on. If you can't find a
punch (rare now) be careful you don't hammer down
the flared end of the rivets too much, as the brass will break. I used a 6in nail and filed
a star fashion on the end. Because I didn't trust
the rivets, I bought 8 brass machine bolts (1/8 in) and filed the round heads a bit to clear the pad face. Then I used 2 bolts per center of shoe. Flare the threaded end of the bolt with a light
hammer so the nut won't come loose. If you can
get a punch, then forget about the bolts. Put a little graphite grease where the
shoes contact the plate and clean the whole thing
up good. (watch the asbestos!). Make sure the
adjusting screw gets some grease and then loosen
it up (inwards) to the end to contract the shoes. Put the 7 retaining bolts on loose enough to just hold the plate and apply the break with a wrench. Tighten the 7 bolts at the same time. This method aligns the shoes in the drum. The rest of the mechanism is just reassembly with grease applied. Do both sides and then expand the shoes through the adjustment window with a flat screwdriver until you can feel the break grab, then back off 3 clicks. Lock both pedals together and test drive at slow speed on gravel flat surface. Then adjust till both wheels break evenly. If you are going to do the brakes, then you
should do the seals too. If you want some tips
there, just post it. Abe

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Alberta Mike

08-15-2000 17:48:53




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 Re: M H 30 Brakes in reply to Chuck, 08-14-2000 10:48:43  
Pretty simple system really. Make some diagrames and notes as you go along. Maybe punch a punch mark where shafts and linkage arms are lined up (these might be changed later, but at least it will be a start). Remove all the outside pedals, shafts, linkages, return springs, etc. then remove the big square plates that cover the brake bands. The brake band will be one continuous band with two shoes glued or riveted onto the band. Take everything apart and clean it up real good. You will likely have to take each band into a good brake shop (not like a franchise like Midas, etc.) and they will reline the bands for you. Make sure that they use the CORRECT lining thickness or you won't get things back together very easily. You can even remove the inner brake drums, they unbolt easily, then clean up in and around the inside. Clean up the drum and sand it off with coarse emery cloth before reassembling it (that is sand the surface which contacts the band lining). Then, put it all back together. Make note of the locations of the band ends on the cam and where and how they are mounted when you take it all apart. Good luck.

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B.C.

08-14-2000 14:40:44




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 Re: M H 30 Brakes in reply to Chuck, 08-14-2000 10:48:43  
There are places on this site where you can order a manual. The I&T manuals are pretty good and I used that when I did the brakes on our MH50 about 15 years ago. They still work.

Basically it's a two shoe arrangement actuated by an S cam as I recall. Pretty straightforward. As one of the books should tell, the shoes can be retracted by turning a star wheel through a slot on each backing plate, like on older cars or trucks.

I used a rented cherry picker to remove the tires from the axle. After you somehow get the rear wheel off safely and the tractor supported safely, the brake drum should come off after you remove two retaining screws. Why they needed to put bolts there is beyond me but apparently they thought they needed them.

The brake shoe arrangement is pretty straightforward. I took the worn shoes to a brake and clutch rebuilder and had them relined. The rest of the parts were acceptable. Stuck her back together, adjusted the brakes out per the manual and she's still good. I got somebody to help me stick those tires back on, even with a cherry picker, because they had fluid in them and probably went 700 lb or so.

Good luck.

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