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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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MF35 spark problem

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P Kirk

10-11-2006 09:55:40




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I have a 1963 MF35 with a continental 4 cylinder gas engine. It was running very well the last time I used it, but it then sat for two years. It was stored outside but nicely covered. Now it will not start. I have no spark. I replaced the battery, points and condenser, plugs, plug wires, coil, and distributer cap and rotor. I even drained the old gas and spayed starter fluid in the carb even though I had no spark just to be on the safe side. I did make the mistake of not replacing each part one by one to isolated the problem better. I have voltage to the coil. The started seems to crank nice with the new battery. With the ignition on I tried touching a screw driver to connect from the points to the base because I was told this should cause a spark but still had no spark. I tried this with the points both open and closed. I also tried holding the high-tension lead a bit away from the engine while using the srewdriver to open and close the contact points with still no spark. The tractor is at my cabin 200 miles away and I am only going up one more time before winter. The am certainly no mechanic but the only two things I can think of is that maybe some new part I put in such as the condenser was bad or that something in the distributer is touching something it should not be and preventing the spark. I am going to bring up a couple of new condensers. The wire from the negative side of the coil makes a small spark when I disconnected it and touched it to the spot it is attached to the distributer. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? I would like to put in an electronic conversion kit but wonder if I try that before I find the present problem if that will make things more confusing if it still has no spark. Thanks!

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102jr

10-14-2006 20:14:29




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 Re: MF35 spark problem in reply to P Kirk, 10-11-2006 09:55:40  
Hi
Some good info there for sure. An easy way is to use a test light (12V) and clip to a good ground. Touch the light to the neg. side of the coil (which should be the wire going to the distributor). Crank the engine and the light should flash bright. If it does, check the coil wire as mentioned for a blue spark. Hold it 1/2 inch from the block, insulate so you don't get zapped.NO spark bad coil. If you get no flash on the test light. check towards the distributor, points,condenser or wires shorted. Did you clean the points after gapping them. You can also use the test light right at the points (hold it on the primary terminal or the movable point) with the cap off and see if you get the flash as the engine cranks. If the light stays on, clean your points and check the distributor ground. If no light? broken wire. Be sure you have the wires in the distributor connected right so the power goes right to the points and is not grounding out somewhere, as mentioned in the other emails.
Good luck

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Jerry/MT

10-11-2006 12:48:13




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 Re: MF35 spark problem in reply to P Kirk, 10-11-2006 09:55:40  
You really should have diagnosed the problem before you bought all the new parts. Do you have a volt meter. For about $5 you can get a little analog one that will help you diagnose the problem. And yes the electronic ignition is useful for a tractor that gets little use but you have to have a functioning ignition system first. So let's try to figure out your problem. Since you didn't replace the distributor or move it in any way, I'll assume tht your timing is correct. I'll also assume you installed the new points with the correct gap. (This is a crucial assumption because if they are not adjusted properly, your spark will be affected.)When you put the plug wires in you put them in the correct positions didn't you? I suspect the primary ignition circuit has a problem. You said you had no spark. How did you check for spark? You should remove the high tension center lead from the distributor cap, expose the metal connector, turn on the key and try a start. You shouldget a fat bluish spark if the ignition working properly. (You can also do this with a spark plug wire, anyone of 'em.)
I'll assume you did this and didn't get a spark. You have a MF-35 so I presume you have a solenoid that connects the starter to the battery. Does your key switch also go to the solenoid connections? You need to check for continuity from the battery, to the keyswitch to the solenoid(if that's part of the circuit) to the coil and to the distributor. Make sure you check the voltage across the key switch as these sometime go bad. Pay attention to how the circuit goes on to the solenoid and check it.Do you have a 12V system or a 6V? Turn the key on, remove the ditributor cap and verify the position of the points as open. If they are not bump the starter til they are.and with the points open (Here's where the volt meter comes in.), you should see battery voltage up at every node in the circuit clear to the coil side of the points. Hold the red volt meter lead against the connection you are testing and the black lead on a good ground and read the voltmeter. and write down the result you measure. If you find a connection(node) where there is no voltage reading than the circuit between that point and the previus point is open. It could be a broken wire or just a dirty connection.Find the problem and fix it. If you repeat the test with points closed, you should see near battery voltage to the battery side of the coil, then a drop on the distributor side of the coil to a volt or two. (Again record the reults for future analyisis.) If you don't see this you have a high reistance somewhere in the circuit and sometimes you can feel the wires and the high resistnce spot is warm to the touch. Try these steps and then get back to this forum and let us know what you find. I'm almost sure that you'll find a corroded loose, or broken connection in the primary circuit. Good luck.

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P Kirk

10-11-2006 16:01:41




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 Re: MF35 spark problem in reply to Jerry/MT, 10-11-2006 12:48:13  
Thanks for the help. It is exactly the type of information I was hoping for. I do believe my timing, firing order and point gap are correct. I was careful replacing the plug wires, did not touch the distributor, and check the gap every time I have the cap off. It is a 12 volt system. Corrosion makes sense because it was working so well before sitting 2 years. I did think that since I had power to the coil that the wiring up to it must be good. I did check for any signs of mice chewing the wires. It will be Veterans day before I get back to the cabin to try this out. Again, Thanks!

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souNdguy

10-12-2006 06:35:34




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 Re: MF35 spark problem in reply to P Kirk, 10-11-2006 16:01:41  
Take some jumper wires with you.. sometimes a meter will show power tot he coil.. but it will be weak, due to a bad ignition switch.. double check this by jumpering from battery to coil directly.. then all the points have to do is ground the circuit.. thus making a spark on the secondary.. ( assuming condensor is good )

Soundguy



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Mike in fla.

10-12-2006 15:25:34




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 Re: MF35 spark problem in reply to souNdguy, 10-12-2006 06:35:34  
Hi,pkirk check the wire that runs through the side of the dist.,I had this same problem on a ford,the wire was grouned out due to vibration,reinsulated the wire at pass through point,problem fixed. good luck,mike.



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