Rear wheel removal

I had a split cone type hub like this on an Allis Chalmers 190-XT. It came with three bolts threaded to fit the tapped outer hub. They were maybe 6" long but the last 2" or so were turned down to a smaller diameter. When you took the three regular bolts out you screwed these in. The turned down ends pushed against the bottom of the drilled & tapped hole in the inner cone of the hub, forcing the two apart. You would turn one about 1/2 turn, then the next one then the next one. It did not take a lot and the cone would pop apart. Then you had to slide it on the axle.

We used a short length of chain, bolted it to a couple of points on the wheel so it passed over the center of the axle. Then we would use a scissors jack held against the end of the axle with the chain passing over the top of the jack. As you jacked the chain would pull on both sides of the wheel and it moved pretty easily. It helped if you wire brushed the axle and put some old oil on it.

That was for pulling the hub out or setting the wheels wider. Pushing it back in was another story. We never did find an easy way to do that.

If you need to do this again, take out one bolt and measure how deep the hole is with a rod or piece of wire. Get a bolt that fits the threads of the hub and is a couple inches longer than the total depth. If there is someone in the area with a lathe they can turn the threads off 2"-3" at the end of the bolts or you could grind them down. The turned down part has to be able to slide inside the threaded parts of the hubs.

Good luck!

Why are you taking it off? are you going to repair the wheel or rim or do something to the tire> Of are you taking it off because you need to get at the brakes or rear axle?

Do you have a 8 ton or heavier hydraulic bottle jack? Do you have some 2' long 6" by 6" or 8" by 8" to support the jack and the tractor while the wheel is off>

Do you have a flat concrete area where you can work? Not necessary, but awfully handy and safer.

Do you have another gractor with a loader that can lift and swing the wheel and tire clear when you get the bolts out?

Do you have an air impact wrench with an impact socket of the correct size? Or can you get a 3/4' drive cocket set with a flex or sliding T handle that you can put a length of pipe on if necessary.

Experiment with getting some bolts loose one by one and then tightening the snug before you jack the tractor up and start to take them all out at once. It the bolts are really tight, try dripping penetrating oil nywhere you can get at then and tapping then with a hammer at intervals. If you don't have something like a tractor loader to suspend the tire and wheel when you take it off, then have plans to have enough help so that you can roll the tire away from the tractor without it getting away from you.

Does the tire have fulid ballast in the tires to increase weight? You can have the fluid pumped out and then put in again if you are going to ahve a hard or dangerous time handling wheels with fluid in.

Good luck, tell us how it turns out or email is for further advice. It was not clear from your question where you anticipated having problems.

That is how it works on a Case anyway, hope it helps.