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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Perkins oil leak

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MF Poor

02-26-2006 17:20:21




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OK. Perkins AD152-3 in a 1971 MF 150. It has the typical "oil from the weep hole". (motor oil)

I've got a set of pan gaskets. The pan comes off tomorrow after work. And my question is, how often is this common oil leak just pan gaskets, and how often could one expect to find the rear main leaking?

(Massey dealer says 90% (+) ends up being just gaskets. How correct is that?)




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David the farm boy

02-26-2006 18:19:04




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 Re: Perkins oil leak in reply to MF Poor, 02-26-2006 17:20:21  
I hate to tell you but its more like a 90% chance that it is the rear main leaking, I am not for sure on the 150 but on a MF 245 you can put a new rear main seal in it with just the pan off may be the same for the 150 due to the moters being very similar



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Big Dean

02-26-2006 18:15:58




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 Re: Perkins oil leak in reply to MF Poor, 02-26-2006 17:20:21  
Your dealer told you right in the 27 years I worked on those engine I may have saw 10 rear crankshaft seals leak but I have probably changed at least 500 leaking pan gaskets.



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MF Poor

02-27-2006 03:27:20




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 Re: Perkins oil leak in reply to Big Dean, 02-26-2006 18:15:58  
Next question, IF it should be the rear main ALSO leaking, how will I tell, other than re-assembling and checking for a continued leak? Any signs to look for? Is the rear main "change-able" with just the pan removed?

And if I"m reading correctly (manuals) will I need to pull timing cover? Even if it stays on, what"s the proceedure for sealing it back to the oil pan?

Final question. What"s the best type of sealant (Brand name too) for oil pan gaskets? (Primarily interested in rear pan seal)

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DavidP, South Wales

03-01-2006 12:03:35




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 Re: Perkins oil leak in reply to MF Poor, 02-27-2006 03:27:20  
Hi,
Experience in the UK shows that roughly 1 set of sump seals leaks for every two rear main seals. Maybe it should be a procedure to change the both together. No you cannot change the rear seal with the pan (sump UK) removed. You will have to split the tractor, remove the flywheel and clutch units plus the back-plate in order to get at the seal which is either a two piece rope or a lip seal.
You do not need to touch the timing cover. The pan bolts up on the cork at the bottom of the TC.
It is essential that the old joints are removed completely. Use genuine replacements if you can. We have used others and because there was a difference in thickness we had problems replacing the horizontal bolts. Use a good quality silicone cement and apply just enough to hold the side pieces in place and around the tags at the end. Carefully with a small screwdriver work the cork into the holding groove and apply some cement to the ends ensuring that it is central. Align the pan on the studs and raise it equally (trolley jack) until you can fit the vertical bolts. Pull up squarely until it is home. Don't forget the long ones at the back!
DavidP

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