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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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MF 135 Brakes

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SuperAli

12-12-2005 06:02:37




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I have recently aquired a 1969 MF 135 and the brakes are useless. They don't "grab" even at crawling speed. I have had the drums off and the shoes are new and dry. I have adjusted the shoes until they just start to rub on the drum and have also adjusted the pedal linkages to remove free travel but yet the brakes just don't work. Any ideas. Could there be wear somewhere that i haven't found. The tractor has about 6-7000 hours on the clock.

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superalimac

01-19-2006 06:06:19




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
Late response. Having checked for wear on cams etc and found none i have noticed that the outside edge of the shoes has a wear chamfer on it which co-incides with shape of the inner edge of the drum. It looks like only this chamfer area of the shoes has been making contact with the drum (ie not allowing the flat area of the shoes to reach the flat area of the drum) It is as if the shoes are too far out from the backplate but the new shoes I purchased are the same width as the old ones - 2inches/50mm. Is this an common problem and should i just grind some material off the outer edge of the shoes. I know the distance from the backplate to the shoe can be adjusted but as it's currently an equal distance at each end of shoe - adjusting the middle wouldn't help, i don't think?

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SuperAli

12-14-2005 16:45:06




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
Hi - I did a bit of investigating today and with the connecting rods disconnected and the shoes adjusted up there is at least one inch of free play (front to back)on the actuating arm on the inner end of the shaft. On taking the drum off it's not actually a cam on the end of the shaft but a rectangular piece of steel. When the brake is applied one end of this pushes the upper shoe up and the other end forces the bottom shoe down. The free play is there before this "cam" touches either shoe. It doesn't appear to have obvious wear but I assume if i can build it up with weld it will be rid of the play. Any thoughts?

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SuperAli

12-13-2005 08:17:29




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
Thanks guys. I'll have to check the actuating cams. I reckoned there must be wear somewhere but didn't know where to look. I don't think the drums have been skimmed as I think I recall seeing slight scoring on them. Is it possible that even slight scoring would prevent the brakes working if the shoes are almost brand new as they appear to be.

Regards
SuperAli



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DavidP,South Wales

12-12-2005 12:15:06




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
Hi,
Aaron is not far off the mark with his suggestion of worn actuating cams which is what I think you will find the problem to be. Regarding the drums I cannot find a specification size in my original MF 135 workshop manual so it is unlikely that your MF dealer would have one either. Assuming that the drums have not been skimmed you should see a narrow 'unworn' area on the inside edge. This will give you an indication of how much (or little) wear is present.
Regarding the cams.
When the system is fully adjusted, the operating arms on the inside of the shafts MUST be pointing towards the rear so that as you apply the brakes you are coming up to full leverage on the shoes and not tailing off as they are on the upward direction.
Remove the drum and shoes and you will probably see quite deep (relatively) wear pockets where the shoes rest topside and underside. These can be ground out with a grinder and built up with weld and ground back. Just above flush is OK. When you refit the drum you will need to disconnect both brake rods at the front end. Ensure that everything is free and adjust the shoes up until the wheels lock. Unlatch the pedals and check that you do not have excessive play in the RH pedal. Using a block of wood or similar support both pedals in the fully raised position (Important). Slacken and adjust the clevises on the front of the rods until you can just insert the pins. Make sure they are not worn on one side. Fit new split pins and secure the locknuts. Remove the pedal block and slacken the adjusters off about 4 to 6 clicks and check that you have about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of free pedal movement.
Fasten your seat belt and I'm pretty sure that your tractor as we say on this side of the pond will 'stop on a sixpence'.
Regards
DavidP

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supergrumpy

12-12-2005 10:17:29




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
I have seen glazed linings that didn"t have much stopping power

if the friction surface is super shiny, might try roughing it up with rasp and see if it makes a difference

was going to suggest using angle grinder or balt sander but that might leave some grit in there

my MF135 will put you over the hood if you stomp on the pedal



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Aaron Ford

12-12-2005 07:32:45




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 06:02:37  
You state that the brakes are new and dry. That means someone has been there recently as Massey's have the best greased brakes in the business. If the actuating linkage is moving freely when disconnected, then I would guess that the drums have been overcut. I would recommend measuring the drums to see if they are still within specs. Hope this helps



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SuperAli

12-12-2005 07:59:18




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to Aaron Ford, 12-12-2005 07:32:45  
Thanks Aaron. I should have said this is my first posting to this website so great to see such a quick response. When is said the brakes were dry - I was refering to no oil leaking past the seals -the shoes are new (they have no rivets in them)and the adjusters inside the drum seemed fairly new as well. When you say "disconnect the linkage" Where do you mean to disconnect it. Do you know what the spec is for 135 drums?

Thanks SuperAli

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Aaron Ford

12-12-2005 10:44:53




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 Re: MF 135 Brakes in reply to SuperAli, 12-12-2005 07:59:18  
No I am sorry, I do not know the specs. When I spoke of the linkage, I was thinking of my 65 disc brake . It was frozen/binding and did not allow full pedal travel.

Try this, jack up wheel. Have one person turning the tire by hand while you gradually apply the adjuster. Proper adjustment is achieved when the tire (not drum) shows light drag and does not merely freewheel. The tire should slow to a stop within about a second. The adjustment is tighter than you would think and is much tighter than a drum brake on a car.

I am sure that there is a spec on the maximum cut on the drums, so if adjusting doesn't work, have them measured at your dealership.

I forgot to ask, are the actuators worn? I think they are the cam type, but my memory is foggy on this. Good Luck

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