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A MH30 will outpull a half-dozen atv's. I had a decrepit 1951 30 back in the 70's for bush work and running a planer on flat belts. It would start anytime on a 6 volt system, even in sub-zero weather or if abandoned for months between uses. A couple of months ago I bought a restored, 1948 model to move trailers around the property when my other tractor is attached to an implement (almost always). It's a good puller -- perfect for clearing brush by pulling stuff out by the roots. It's easy to get on and off. The springed seat is comfortable. I like how the 30 is quick to get going and stopped -- no elaborate rituals with fuel shut offs or pre-heating. I would not buy this tractor to use with pto implements because the power take off shaft is right in the way as you climb over the draw bar to the seat. This is a safety issue. My Massey Ferguson 35 has seat access from in front of the rear tires, a much safer layout for pto work. As well it has hydraulics and a three-point hitch, making it a good bush-hogging, snow-blowing, ploughing machine. I also put a loader on it. I use the 30 many more times in a week than the MF35, though the 35 does the bulk of the heavy work. They are both good on fuel. The 30 is the one I would start an inexperienced operator on, as it has excellent brakes, bone simple controls, and a pleasing personality. One thing I would inquire about is the brakes. I read on this site that taking the back wheels off a Massey Harris is among the more difficult restoration tasks in tractorland. If the vendor can assure you that the brakes have been done, chances are it's a true restoration. Maintenance: very easy to maintain. You will need a 9/16" wrench and a small hammer. Implements: pull-type ploughs, disks, cultivators are available. Buy a good logging chain. I welded a piece of 2 1/4" square steel to the top surface of the draw bar to allow the use of a variety of 2" trailer-type ball receivers, allowing fast changes and easy chain hookups for towing. Because of terrific visibility the 30 is much easier to hitch up to a trailer than is an SUV with an expensive back bumper. Snow removal: that will take some ingenuity, as snow blowers call for 3 pt hitches and pto. A front-mounted blade with an electric lift would work. The 30 has lots of mass to push stuff. Cost: I paid $1650. CDN for a decent 30 with 12v system, loaded tires, rebuilt engine and brakes. Just a thought: after you've had the tractor a while you could add a hydraulic system and front-end loader. It would make the steering stiffer but would greatly increase the utility of the tractor for snow removal and general work around the property.
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