Loader for a '62 MF 35 deluxe

Smaller-diameter cylinders should make for quicker response times. Down pressure (dual acting cylinders) is definitely worth the extra cost.

To power the loader he'll have to install a diverter valve which allows the operator to select hydraulics to the 3 pt. hitch OR to the loader. It's not that hard to get used to, but still an inconvenience.

Steering is heavier with a loader installed, but it's not impossible. The extra weight in front got me stuck every time I tried to move during spring thaw, though.

A 35 with a loader is not a bulldozer. It cost me a tooth on the bucket to discover this while picking stones.

It took my mechanic 23 hours of his spare time to mount an old Freeman loader, replace the cylinders with three new ones, reinforce the frames and fabricate the hydraulic system to power it. The cost, not including the old loader? About $2k CDN.

All of these things said, I would definitely mount the loader if I had it to do over again. Most of the time it's just carrying a forkful of manure to the garden or lifting rails off an overgrown fencerow, but it's great to have a loader for the heavy lifting around the property.

As well, the extra weight on the front makes the tractor more controllable when operating a rear-mounted snowblower or bush hog.

Hope this helps.

Rod

Mine had been (badly) adapted to fit a 165. so it required a fair amount of welding and bending things, as well as building my own front frame for it. Therefore it was a relatively long job. Took about 2 days, but id say half of that was driving around trying to find bolts for it!

but, if you got one straight off another 35 or 135 it will be a 1 or 2 hour job to fit it.

First you fit a plate under the middle of the tractor, 4 bolts and its done - but its not light and was a pain in the are to do on my own, with jacks. One person could easily lift each end and hold it while you bolt it, if they are there.

then you will have to bolt a front frame up - another 4 bolts and fit 2 arms from the centre peice (to stop the bottom plate twisting)

Then for hydraulics.

you need an adapter plate on the cover in front of the seat. 2 bolts and its on the right hand side. Undo the bolts and lift it off. Pull the pipe off the bottom once its out, and change the o rings if you can.

then shove this pipe onto the bottom of your new diverter valve and (carefully - dont force it) sit it back down on the pump. It will pop back on easily eniough, but its quite fiddly. Bolt it down (on some of them easier said than done - mine was a bastard) and youre good there.

Really you need a power loader, with a cylinder or 2 to tip the bucket. Take a pipe from the diverter valve to a spool block and fron there to the loader.

youre good to go!

Ben